Carter 2bbl specs

Do you mean the specs come with the rebuild kit ??? That would be to easy :-)

Thanks

The Haynes CJ manual is the best one for your engine bay area. It has the YJ book beat hands down.

A carb kit with a new float needle and seat as well as all the gaskets is only about $20.00 and comes with detailed directions.

The float level measured with the carb inverted is 0.25". The accelerator pump is 0.52".

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail >

I took the carb. apart , cleaned it in solvent, put it back together with new gaskets, needle ass. and float. Adjusted everything according to the specs ( and yes , they came with the rebuild kit, thanks for the tip) Put it back on the engine and drove it, it ran perfect ! Idles great and much better throttle response

Now the problem I ran into is that after I shut the engine off, gas keeps dripping gas into the venturi causing it to start very hard, especially short after turning it off. I had that problem before the rebuild but not nearly as bad as it is doing it now I noticed it also has a minor drip when idling. When I have it running again, it idles and drives great again

I double checked the float level (0.25"), acc.pump adjustment and needles and all seem OK

My question is, what's causing it to flood ????????????

Could it be as described in

I'm pretty sure the idle tubes are clean. Only thing I can think off is that they are loose (if thats possible)

Again any help would be great

I was thinking the same thing, lowered the level several times but the only thing that happened is that it started to run crappy and had a big hole @ acceleration

also it was still leaking so I putt it back to 0.25"

It doesn't have a damper spring, the lip of the float pushes directly to the needle

Sounds like the idle tubes are clogged

Another possibility is that the wrong gasket or a defective gasket is in there. Fuel should definitely *not* leak into the venturi from the float bowl. It is not unheard of for a new needle and seat assembly to be defective either.

Earle

I have had the exact same trouble with the last kit I put in. The float needle and seat were bad. The store warrantied them.

The idle tubes are those two long brass tubes that hang down. They are real sneaky for plugging up. I can just remove the choke plate and then the two screws holding the venturi in and lift and twist the venturi around so it slips out without removing the whole top of the carb for cleaning. You have to blow through the tubes to make sure they are clear. The tubes 'can' fall out too.

As a note, the solvent will 'not' clear blocked tubes. They do need to be reamed out with a piece of wire at the least, and oversized with a welding torch tip drill or file to help keep the suckers clear. I think half the dirt that gets in them comes from that U shaped chunk of gas line between the filter and carb. It needs serious cleaning on most.

Here is a link on the tubes:

Don't forget that the gas filter has to be in right side up.... It has

2 outlets. The center one goes to the carb and the top one goes to the return line. If the return line isn't up top, gas can syphon back to the tank when it sits.

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail >

Hey....

Took the idle tubes out like you suggested. They were clean double checked everything and found that the idiot that "overhauled " it before swapped the gaskets. He put the lower gasket between the idle tube cover and the idle tube gasket under the venturi cluster causing it to leave a little gap between the idle tube cover and venturi cluster where the gas dripped out.

Off course the last idiot that worked on it just peeled the old gaskets off and also put the new 1's in wrong ( oh wait , that was me...... :-) )

after starting it and cleaning the gas out off the manifold I started it again after an hour and it fired right up

Thanks yall for the tips

Cool.

Mike

JohanB wrote:

I have seen this happen a lot. It is almost as if the designers wanted the carburetor to "almost work" with a gasket in wrong. Sometimes, they put extra gaskets in carburetor rebuild kits, that apparently don't fit any model carburetor ever made. I don't know how many shade tree mechanics and professional mechanics too have been caught by this little joke. Let's just say that I found out about it the hard way too.

Earle

The BBD kit has gaskets for both the electric model and the standard model in it which makes it confusing right off the bat.

They have a sneaky base plate add on too. The sucker has 4 little notches in it that have to be on the top side and not covered by a gasket or the carb won't get vacuum to it's ports.

Mike

Earle Hort>