110 Headlight

You could buy a pair of new halogen lights with bulbs for around £25

just buy a halogen headlight conversion kit from BROOKWELL supplies .

choice of 2 kits but the RING kit will suffice youre needs .

look under accessories and then lighting to find the healamps .

you can of course buy from other companies as well but brookwell are as cheap if not cheaper than others .

when you remove headlamps you need to take off the large square black plastic light surround , then i think there is just 1 screw to take out and then you can twist the whole lamp and bowl off the 2 adjuster pins . then you take out the 3 screw around the rims and take out sealed beam unit and replace with the halogen one . after refitting the lamps you just plug the connectors back on at rear same as before .

you can change the bulbs if you wish but i wouldnt go above 80/100w .

As the headlight units are all interchangeable I would not place too much reliance on what is actually fitted after 22 years being what was originally fitted.If the wiring is original there is no relay for the lights, and going over about 75 watts is asking for trouble with the headlight switch and combination switch. For the same wattage halogen lights will give more light. Your headlights are supposed to match, but the difference will probably have to be pretty marked for you to get booked for it. But I would replace both with halogen lights. JD

Certainly if you don't want to get nicked - 80/100 would be illegal (except pre about 1954 or something) - and *very* annoying to other motorists.

Richard

On or around 6 Dec 2005 15:49:25 -0800, "m0bcg" enlightened us thusly:

I's stay at the normal 60/55W and buy decent quality bulbs, meself. There are various bulbs claiming "30% brighter" or suchlike.

but in reality, any 60/55 halogen is plenty of light for a 110, if the reflectors are OK.

80W dip beams are illegal, though I admit that you're unlikely to get done for it. They're also unnecessarily bright. There's a silly situation now where everyone makes ever-brighter dip beams. Bright *main* beams I understand, especially on a fast vehicle. bright dip beams just reduce vision for everyone: they dazzle, even if properly adjusted and make it harder to spot unlit objects outside the beam pattern.

Personally, I'd favour banning or making less bright the HID dip beams, too.

- subjectively, they're much brighter than halogen ones, and notwithstanding the self-levelling, they still dazzle when the road's the wrong shape.

I'm not entirely convinced that the modern sharp cut-off on the dip pattern is entirely useful, either - the bit that shine higher off to the right is handy for spotting things along the side of the road, but even that gives problems on the wrong sort of bends. The older lamps didn't have such a sharp cut-off, and I don't see them as being any the worse for that.

i forget the date but 80/100's were legal on my 1984 110 as i checked before fitting them, however i found i got 'better' light from a pait of osram silver star bulbs.

-- Mark.

"nec aspera terrent"

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On or around Wed, 07 Dec 2005 11:56:01 +0000, MVP enlightened us thusly:

there is a date after which lamps must carry an E mark, and that includes the bulbs. However, before that they have to carry "an approval mark", ISTR.

100/80s are a waste of time unless you upgrade the current path from the battery supply through to the lights. This normally means putting a relay in, and might involve better earthing as well.

On modern vehicles, the headlamp wiring is mostly too thin to carry the higher current successfully, and so you need not only a relay but a more convincing current feed to the lights.

Hwence decent quality 60/55s give the same light.

Just for reference, I just upgraded my headlights wiring with decent 16AWG wires running through relays controlled by the original headlight circuit with a minimal distance run back to the SLI battery and nearly doubled the useful light output just with that. This was on a 1993 200 Disco, but the principle probably holds - There's a lot of resistance in the standard wiring and just doing a rewire on the headlights can make a world of difference.

Doesn't mean I'm not going to stick a set of 80/100 or 90/130s in it for off road use though, although it's already got better than half a kilowatt of light up front on full beam.

P.

On Wed, 7 Dec 2005 06:22:52 +0000, JD wrote (in article ):

I recently went from a set of sealed beam units to a pair of Britpart H4 halogen reflectors with standard 55/60W bulbs, and it was a definite improvement (particularly since one of the sealed beam units had failed, which is why I did it in the first place!). However, about 10 days ago I put a set of 'xenon' high output bulbs in (not the fancy coloured ones, just the white-but-bright-ones) and they are very obviously better then the previous ones.

If I wanted more light than this, I'd fit additional driving lamps which go out when main beam is switched off. Not only will they reduce dazzle for other people, they also give you a lot more flexibility about where the light gets pointed, and you can wire them on a direct feed (use at least 2.5mm^2) from the fusebox, via a relay, and avoid any possible problems with switch contacts or overloading small wires.

Having said that, I used to have two pairs of 100W Cibie Super Oscars on my Escort van which were fantastic for deer spotting on late night runs up the northern part of the A9, but given that my LR has a top speed a good 30 mph slower than the Escort and I'm not doing any serious late night offroading I see no need for extra lamps on it.

Nick.

1990 90 2.5TD