Re: A tale of two V8s

Here's a bit of a mystery.

> >A friend and I both have V8s. > >This is mine: > >An '86 3.5 litre 110 with LPG, Strombergs (from a Rangie), RPI >Advance-by-Retard ignition amplifier / standard ignition amplifier (they're >on plugs-and-sockets so I can swap them around), Magnecor leads, Bosch >4-electrode plugs, etc. The engine was rebuilt (to standard spec) about 10K >miles ago. > >This is my mate Bill's: > >An '89? fully rebuilt 4.6 litre 90 with LPG, Holley? 4-barrel with plate >mixer for gas, pancake filter on the top, RPI cam, RPI Advance-by-Retard >ignition amplifier, Magnecor leads (I think), and lots-and-lots of other >expensive bits. You may have seen it in one of the mags (LROI?) a few months >ago. It's bright yellow with a safety devices roll cage. > >Anyway, they both have a tendency to run like a dog and the symptoms are >_so_ similar, we're convinced it's the same problem. Trouble is, neither of >us has managed to find out what it is. Generally speaking, we reckon both of >them are down on power. The main problem, though, is that when you're trying >to get a wriggle on, all of a sudden there's a significant drop in power. >Bill describes it as someone throwing a huge rubber band over the towball. >There's a hill on the A5 between Shrewsbury and Telford. If it happens there >(and it often does), it's a real struggle to climb - often to the point of >having to change down to second and crawl up it at 25-30MPH. If it doesn't >happen, we'll usually get up it at around 70MPH in fourth - though in the >past I'd have no problem at over 80MPH in fifth. The problem is evident on >both LPG and petrol, though it's _much_ more pronounced on petrol. With >mine, if I'm running on petrol, it usually kicks in about 20 minutes after >setting off. It ticks over fine, but there's no 'go'. It sounds as though >it's missing, but I'm not convinced it is. > >Here's what we've tried: > >Engine wear: we've had mine apart, checked for anything obvious, put it all >back together again with new gaskets and tested the compression. All looks >fine. > >Fuelling: Bill's tried two different carbs, plus a strange carb/injection >hybrid. I've stuck with the Strombergs. Nothing's made a difference. > >Ignition: I've replaced most ignition parts with higher-spec bits. The >dizzy's been changed for an RPI recon. Recently, I rewired the ignition >amplifiers so that I could have them both in and quickly switch between >them. Nothing's made a difference, though as a general note, it's slightly >stronger on petrol with the more advanced ignition (using the standard >amplifier with the timing advanced for LPG) and there's no pinking. > >Exhaust: Bill thought that it may be a restrictive exhaust problem, so he >cut the brand new back box in half to take a look (!). Reckons it looks >fine, so he's put it back together. Mine's a standard mild steel system. No >apparent problems there. > >Bill's current thinking is that maybe the hydraulic lifters are pumping up, >so he's considering trying solid lifters and adjustable tappets. > >However, we're still really grasping at straws and we've been going around >in circles like this for over around 2 years. Any insight would be greatly >appreciated!

It sounds very similar to the fuel starvation problem I had with the

101. We never managed to nail it down 100%, but after a lot of heartache and time it was sorted after a top-rebuild with new gaskets. This was after several sets of fuel lines, new fuel pump (in various locations), new Mallory dizzy and full electrics. So we reckon it was an inlet manifold leak causing it to run lean, particularly when warm and on full boot as it would bumble along on the flat at low throttle without any hassle. Show it a hill and it would be a first gear job (if I was lucky).

But if yours has been apart then that won't be it. You may have the same symptoms with different causes. From experience it is very easy to get tied up on an initial assumption (we assumed fuel delivery problems on the 101) and overlook another option.

So perhaps Bill should rebuild his top end (which he sounds like he's about to do anyway).

Have you replaced your fuel lines and filters? I would replace rather than blowing through. If you blow through, blow in BOTH directions as a nick may only close the line in one direction. If you have the problem on LPG then it won't be this, but again you could be experiencing TWO problems or just be imagining the LPG issue!

We were one step away from booking a rolling road, but that is not a cheap option and won't necessarily fix your problem.

Tim Hobbs

'58 Series 2 '77 101FC Ambulance '95 Discovery V8i

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Reply to
Tim Hobbs
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"Steve Morgan" schreef in bericht news: snipped-for-privacy@demeter.uk.clara.net...

[V8 horror story] Read it twice.

Just loud thinking: when you say: "slightly stronger on petrol with the more advanced ignition (using the standard amplifier with the timing advanced for LPG)" Are you sure the base timing is correct in the first place? I don't know how it is to be set on your machines but I remember reading in this NG about the timing marks on the pulley's being sometimes way off. Perhaps the advancing for LPG is correct but starting from the wrong timing point?

Good luck

Reply to
aghasee

Worthy of some more consideration, though. Anyone got any good tips on how to find out without taking it all apart?

Yep.

Oh, if only! It's certainly worse on petrol, but the problem's definitely there on LPG. I feel sorry for Bill, to be honest. He's got this gorgeous looking 4.6 90 and it goes no faster than my 3.5 110. OK, so I don't feel _that_ sorry for him!

It was when I took it for a session of a rolling road that it became evident that the engine needed rebuilding three and a half years ago. The guy phoned me up and asked "have you ever looked at the cam in this?". 1300 quid later, I got to drive it home. It still never got on the rollers!

Thanks for the suggestions.

Reply to
Steve Morgan

I'm going to check my true TDC next week when I finally get hold of an electronic advance unit for the LPG/petrol settings - apparently the easiest way to do it is to get spark plug #1 off , insert a feeler (bit of wire coat hanger) through the hole until it contacts the top of the piston and then hand rotate the engine until you can feel TDC - then you check the marks. AFAIK main reason for the timing marks being out is stretch in the timing chain - I replaced mine last year and the old chain and gears were noticeably looser than the replacements. Of course I may have reinstalled them a both out in any case which would make my timing much worse (the present timing is set as far advanced on petrol as I can get it without pinking - very technological!).

As to tolerance of timing - I refitted the dizzy a tooth or two out last week (I ALWAYS do that) and it would start happily on petrol with the timing way advanced - there was no trace of the timing marks at all when using the gun so maybe 20 degrees plus??

Graeme

Reply to
Graeme

Spray some easy start, or WD40 around the outside of the manifold, around the gasket, any leak will draw the easy start in and cause a change in the running.

Reply to
SimonJ

It may sound daft but I have known of the same problem caused by using a cheap aftermarket rotor arm. We put a lucas one in and never had the problem again. just athought. Dave

1986 V8 90
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Reply to
Dave

No, doesn't sound daft at all. IIRC, the one that's in is a Lucas one, about four years old. I'll take a look and perhaps change it.

Cheers,

Reply to
Steve Morgan

You say the V8 is pretty tolerant of the timing setting. I have been sorting out a couple of vacuum leaks in the brake booster and carb to manifold joint and suddenly my 1985 Range Rover with Weber 38DGAS is running like a dog. I think the previous owner had adjusted these leaks out somehow. I set the timing to 3deg BTDC according to my manual and it was even worse. Backfiring on acceleration, flat spot on pull off. So over a few days of driving I found that by advancing it got better. But then it would misfire at higher revs. Change the points gap and that would solve it. The timing and gap seem to be related. Still not quite perfect and the vacuum advance on the distributor is almost touching the water pump so I don't have a lot of adjustment left in the timing arena. Now it backires gently on the overrun. Idle is not as smooth as before and it occaisionally backfires when accelerating hard. Maybe I am doing something else wrong?

Any advice welcome

Thanks

Reply to
paul

On or around Mon, 1 Sep 2003 14:08:30 +0200, paul enlightened us thusly:

have you gotten rid of all the vacuum leaks?

apart from that...

timing and points gap are related, also points gap affects the spark on account of dwell angle. Dwell angle is the length of time the points are open (or closed) out of a single open-closed cycle. Wider gap means the points are open longer, narrow gap they're open shorter - if the gap is too narrow, you don't get reliable breaking of the contact, especially on an old distributor. Too wide a gap, you don't reliable *close* the contacts, or you don't get enough energy into the coil. Points gap should be set to the book value, which is generally somewhere around the 10-15 thou. The book says 15 for the RR. It also suggest using a dwell meter to get the points gap right - dwell should be 26-28 degrees or 58-62%.

check the coil secondary winding resistance (to the casing, normally) - it should *have* resistance. If it's open circuit then it's got a break in it

- this won't necessarily stop it producing sparks, but may well produce weak sparks.

check the coil is the correct sort for the system - points ignition doesn't have the same coil as electronic.

and, of course, there's always ignition leads, on V8s. Poor leads can give problems, much more readily than on some engines.

Reply to
Austin Shackles

Yup all the vacuum leaks are sorted. The brake booster one has been plaguing me for a while but as soon as I disconnected the vacuum hose and shoved a bolt into it the engine just sort of smoothed out. Was wonderful though the non assisted brakes were challenging! Have also replaced the HT leads, distributor cap, rotor, points, condensor. Wish I had a dwell meter. That would make life easier. Will check the coil tonight.

Can I remove the distributor and turn the rotor a few degrees to get more adjustment?

Thanks for the help.

Reply to
paul

"paul" asked

Yes but at your peril!

As you pull the dizzy out of the block the rotor arm will rotate slightly from its original position as the drive gears are rotated. Provided you note the starting and finishing positions of the rotor arm then slotting it back in should be OK but -

the bottom of the dizzy drive shaft has a slot in it that fits onto the oil pump drive - look down the hole left when you have pulled the dizzy out and you will see the oil pump drive shaft sticking up (looks like the tip of a broad screwdriver) - this must align with the slot in the bottom of the dizzy when you refit - if you rotate the rotor arm then you will also have to rotate this part to match. It can be rotated carefully using a long screwdriver or you can cut a slot in a flat screwdriver tip with an angle grinder which makes rotating it easy.

I did this successfully recently after refitting dizzy wrong (yet again) however you will note I have not mentioned direction of rotation at all - I simply cannot get my head around it and, fortunately, have a very sensible SWMBO who, when presented with the same problem you have took one look and said - turn the bit inside the engine anti- clockwise - worked a treat.

Graeme

Reply to
Graeme

A little while ago I had a few problems with my Range Rover V8. Well I am happy to say I have sorted it out eventually.

There were actually 2 problems - the one caused the backfiring and the other the rough running. The backfiring was caused by a loose exhaust joint between the manifold and the exhaust. Took it apart, cleaned it, bunged it full of gun gum and tightened it up and voila.

The rough running is a bit more embarassing. Some pillock ( namely myself) replaced the points without engaging the pin into the vacuum advance lever. Once I had caught onto that the distributor is back where it was and the engine is as smooth as butter.

Thanks for all the ideas though.

We have just spent 3 weeks and 6700km travelling through Namibia in it. Used LOTS of petrol and tyres - see the thread on Range Rover tyre pressures.

Am busy updating my website with the pics - will let you all know when it done.

Reply to
paul

Sounds like a good trip! cant wait to see the piccys.

Minor problems always seem to be the most time consuming to fix.

Lee D

-- ________________________________

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Just a little hobby site about Landies :-) ________________________________

Reply to
Lee_D

On or around Fri, 9 Jan 2004 10:02:19 +0200, paul enlightened us thusly:

ooops.

:-)

have you done the "plug leads in the wrong order" one yet? I managed that on a 4 cylinder once.

Reply to
Austin Shackles

Amateur - I managed it on a V8 - lots more combinations to try! :(

Reply to
Exit

|| have you done the "plug leads in the wrong order" one yet? I ||| managed that on a 4 cylinder once. || || Amateur - I managed it on a V8 - lots more combinations to try! :( || ||

From my dim memory of stats in school, the number is 8 factorial (written as

8!, which I loved), or 40,320. Could be a long afternoon...
Reply to
Richard Brookman

On or around Sat, 10 Jan 2004 13:51:33 -0000, "Richard Brookman" enlightened us thusly:

reckon yer right. However, you'd not do it like that, or I wouldn't, anyway, faced with an unknown engine and asked to work out the firing order. I'd pull the plugs, turn the engine by hand till I found a compression stroke on a given cylinder, note which way the distributor was pointing and find it a segment to point at in the cap, wire up or label that'n, and continue.

my 4-cylinder one was as a result of misremembering the direction of rotation, and wiring it up 1-2-4-3 instead of 1-3-4-2, or somesuch.

Did once have an engine on which some previous person had got the distributor 90° out - cam belt went on it, so I reassembled and timed it all according to the book, then spent ages trying to find out why it wouldn;t start. eventually got around to checking which way the distributor was pointing on #1 compression stroke, and found it 90° out; moved all leads round one and away she went.

Reply to
Austin Shackles

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