97 E420 rear power windows

Hi All,
I have a 97 E420 MBz and have had the second rear window operation fail. The regulator mechanism (cables, etc.) failed. The rear right window failed about 2-1/2 years ago. The window
mechanism behind the driver failed last month. When I removed the door panel to put a temporary fix in place (a stick strategically placed to keep the window up), I found a screw laying in the bottom of the door pan. I'm wondering if the screw vibrated out of position and caused the mechanism/assembly to fail.
Does anyone have any knowledge, experience, rumors about my theory of the vibrating screw. When the first window failed, it costed me about $275 when things were renewed. Call me cheap, but I thinking the loose screw may simplify the repairs for my latest window incident.
Thanks in advance for any and all help.
Hez
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Try putting it back in to see if it works... then you will know your answer.
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Tiger wrote:

Hi Tiger,
That's my problem. I haven't disassembled the door any farther than just removing the panel.
The mechanism is cables and a motor. I don't know (not yet anyway) how all these pieces went together. I'm visualizing a cable arrangement for raising the window and the same unit lowering it. Possibly, the electric motor runs in either direction?
Has anyone actually replaced or removed/reinstalled the motor and/or cabling?
Just looking for some shared wisdom.
Again, thanks in advance to all
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Hez wrote:

I've done it on my 1999 e55(w210), both windows. The original design on the w210 is flawed. The cable jumps the track and hoses up the up-down motion. Once you extract the unit, you will see that it's a poor design. You will have to get the entire mechanism out and re-installed. The rivets need to be drilled out. make sure to replace them with stainless steel rivets. It's not a hard job. Do you know how to remove the inner door panel? You just hate to do it because it shouldn't have had to be done in the first place. Going forward, I put the kiddy control on all the time. No one actuates the rear windows, but me. I'm also very ginger when I roll them up. Once they are fix be careful not to 'push' the window higher than necessary.
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jb wrote:

Hi Again Tiger,
Thanks for the tips, hints, and clues. Yes, I've had the door panel off twice already within the last month. I appreciate knowing in advance that there are POP RIVETS involved. I'll be prepared to extract (drilling) and replace (may have to buy a pop rivet tool with the muscle for stainless steel). As a rule, I'm the only one in the car and I'm the only one actuating the back windows.
What is the concern about running the rear windows up and down? You mentioned being "very ginger" with them. Also, what is the worry about "pushing" the window higher than necessary? I'm assuming there are stops to limit the up & down travel of the glass during normal operations. Again, any advice will be greatly appreciated.
Finally, I'm assuming there is not a problem reusing the existing cable / motor assembly. Is there an improvement that can be incorporated while I have the guts of the door in my hands (sorry for the visual image this conjures up)? If there is an drawing, sketch etc. of how all this goes together, directions to where I can see it/them would be ever so wonderful. I guess I can always look at the other rear door window mechanism for guidance - look but now touch!
HAS ANYONE ELSE HAD THE PLEASURE TO TINKER IN THIS AREA ON THEIR E-CLASS? I'm sure there are others - because this failure is on the MBz Lemon list of complaints from vehicle owners.....!
Thanks in advance AND humbly yours......Hez of the Pacific NW
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Hez wrote:

There isn't a stop per se. The window control learns the top and the botoom from resistance(i think). But I don't hold the up button down any longer than I have to. Maybe I'm supersticious. The motor you have can be re-used. Nothing else. I'm not sure where to get a pictoral of all of this. Good luck and ask back once you get into the job. JB 1999 E55 1988 300E
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When battery have been changed, you are supposed to close window and hold it up for another 5 or so seconds so the memory is set in the computer. I think it is same for the down too.
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You will need the Big Daddy pop riveter like this one:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?ItemnumberA291
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