Brake Rotor removal

(*&^(&*^%#$$%#^ .... I can not get my rotor off the hub. I've tried heat and pounding as well as a bearing puller..... I'm sure many of you had
similar rusted on rotors (there is nothing holding it once the calipers are off) what turned out to work best? more heat or more pounding....grrrrr
cheers, guenter
ps if it matters, it's my daughters '95 cavalier... it needs bearings
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Use a bigger hammer.
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Richard Sexton <See http://rs79.vrx.net for address> wrote:

    But I'm already taking chunks out of the edge of the rotor....
am I hitting the rotor at the right places I wonder??
cheers, guenter
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I used a 4-lb hammer before... band from inside... no problem...small hammer may not work..
there is a screw that secure the disc..
wrote:

heat
are
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Then hit the rotor hard at the spot wheel wheels sit (around the hub)... and it will bounce out.
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Hmm, ok, well get some penetrating oil down between the hub and the rotor and give it a couple of hours to work.
Then whack it some more.
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Exactly, thanks Richard.... we'll see tomorrow if it'll finally come off. Geez, I hate to be told "told you to go to a garage" by my wife "-) I've 'got' tp get this rotor off and finish to job so I can tell ger 'piece of cake' :-)
cheers, guenter
Richard Sexton <See http://rs79.vrx.net for address> wrote:

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I am not sure... is it a hub/brake disc unit? If yes, take the center cap off then cotter pin and then the nut. If there is no hub, did you get the screw that holding the disc in off?
Lastly, why don't you go to the local library to check Chilton service manual?
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thanks for the thought.... there is no screw etc holding the rotor on the bearing/hub assembly.... it is held on by the rim when it's bolted on... there is a 30mm nut that holds the bearing/hub sealed assembly onto the frame. On Richard's suggestion I've now tried a fair sized mallet with no luck... I'm sure that I'm about to brake the rotor if I pound any harder/longer.... if anyone has had similar difficulties with a rotor removal I'd LOVE to know what may have finally done the trick to get it off.... WD40/heat/pounding?
cheers, guenter
ps I just can't give in to the temptation to take it to the garage... it must be a matter of pride at this point.... I should have taken it to the garage right away though - but I'll be damned if I admit defeat to my wife who just loves to take everything to an 'expert' :-)
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Hit around the hub where wheel hold it in... use a steel hammer... ball pean hammer, what ever... whack it hard and let it bounce off the hub onto your feet.
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Wait a minute... are we talking rear rotor? If so, make sure parking brake is NOT on.
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:-) of course not ... I'm impressed though at the possibilities you are thinking of..... much appreciated. Thank you.
cheers, guenter
ps I've meanwhile sprayed it with WD40 and am waiting a bit.... nI can't believe the rotor is rusted onto the hub/bearing assembly to that degree. Lesson for those who might consider doing similar themselfes.... think twice about it. al the parts that were 'supposed'to be difficult like removing the 30 mm hub nut were trivially easy.... the rotor was suposed to just fall off after removing the wheel.... yeah right. Maybe if the car hasn't had 10 winters on it
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Eww. I would have used real penetrating oil WD40 only does one thing well - keep water out. It does a lot of other things ok but not great.
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Richard, good to know..... but, what is a good penetrating oil? I thought the stuff simply needed to be very 'runny' which WD40 certainly is...
cheers, guenter
Richard Sexton <See http://rs79.vrx.net for address> wrote:

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Almost any petrolium product will work. Hell I've used transmission fluid in a pinch.
But stuff mad just for this purpose works best. I have a can of stuff that says "penetrating oil". Beats me where I got it and for all I know it came over on the boat from Wales with my dad.
Crappy tire will have stuff. It goes by lots of trade names which escape me for the moment. It's very thin, like water and smells awful.
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[WD-40 versus penetrating oil]

Isn't WD-40 actually a powder, sort of like the graphite used for locks, that's suspended in a liquid carrier which evaporates? If so, its penetrating power is pretty much limited to the force of the aerosol propellant, which obviously stops the moment you take your finger off the button, plus whatever finite length of time it takes the carrier to evaporate.
Penetrating oil, in contrast, won't evaporate. And it's a commodity; penetrating oil is penetrating oil. No brand is superior to any other in my experience.
Geoff
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No, it's an oil in a solvent carrier that evaporates. Graphite can come as a powder or in an alcohol carrier.
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Richard Sexton <See http://rs79.vrx.net for address> wrote:

    I've been told by a shop mechanic that WD40 is a light oil that is suspended in a soapy carrier solution..... difficult to know exactly what it is, but it does appear to 'foam' quite easily
cheers, guenter
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