previa rotor removal

I lost most of the brake chapter of my Haines book, it got so much use. ;) Refresh my memory how to get a front rotor off of a 91 Previa- do I need any special tools once I get the caliper out of the way?

Reply to
Joe
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To remove the front rotor from a 91 Previa:

Jack up vehicle and place on jack stands. Remove front wheel.

Remove 2 caliper slide bolts from the inboard side of the caliper and place caliper on top of backing plate. Remove 2 bolts that hold the caliper bracket and remove caliper bracket. Remove rotor

Reply to
Ray O

"Ray O" wrote in news:ae105$461d41ba$44a4a10d$ snipped-for-privacy@msgid.meganewsservers.com:

If the rotor is rusted to the hub (VERY common in the northeast), there is a little-known but easy technique to break it free.

No, this technique does not require two 8mm bolts.

Ask if you wanna know.

Reply to
Tegger

*I* wanna know!
Reply to
Hachiroku

I cant believe I'm asking this, but are the slide bolts the ones with

19mm heads? I've had the dam calipers off before and its like my brains have been sucked out by evil Vulcans, I cant remember a thing even when I'm looking right at it. I cant wait for 50...
Reply to
Joe

=?iso-2022-jp?q?Hachiroku_=1B$B%O%A%m%=2F=1B=28B?= wrote in news:dugTh.15023$Cl.1688@trndny08:

It's really simple and requires almost no effort.

You know how the rotor looks like a hat? It has a brim (the friction surface). It has a crown (the part the bolts stick out of). It also has the "riser" between brim and crown. The "riser is the important part.

Get a half-pound (8oz) ball-peen hammer.

Tap the small end of the hammer on the "riser" part. Get as close to the brim as you can without actually hitting it (unless you're planning on junking the rotor anyway). Tap the rotor and turn it. You want to tap a bit harder than you'd knock on a house door. Keep tapping and turning, tapping and turning.

Eventually you'll start to hear and see rust dropping down from the back of the rotor. Try wiggling the rotor now. It should move a bit. Keep tapping and turning and wiggling. Eventually the rotor will come loose enough that you can hammer it off from the back, or it may just pull off by that point.

What you're doing is breaking up the rust that forms on the inside of the "riser". That rust traps the hub in between itself and the crown, which is why the rotor can't be budged.

Takes only a few minutes and works like a charm on even the worst rusted rotors.

Reply to
Tegger

AHA! Wish I still had my Grand Voyager! I almost ruined a sledghammer getting THOSE rotors off!!!

Reply to
Hachiroku

OK, dumbo here figured it out. You only have to remove one 17mm bolt then the caliper slides off the other one. The 19 mm bolts are holding on the bracket, and the top one looks like it will be fun to get off- you cant get a ratchet in there and I dont have a 19 mm wrench for some reason.

Reply to
Joe

Try a short extension between the socket and the ratchet or breaker bar.

Reply to
Ray O

For as many cars as I've tinkered with over the years, I've never had any trouble removing a rotor. I'll have to store this one in my bag of tricks.

Reply to
Ray O

I've never NOThad trouble removing one.

the hammer trick didnt work. NE rust cant lay a finger on Minnesota rust I guess. Guess I'll try the bolt trick as soon as I can find a bolt that fits.

I couldnt get the top bolt out of the backing plate either, but I think I can get the rotor out anyway. I was able to swing the lower end out a couple inches with help of the hammer.

Reply to
Joe

"Ray O" wrote in news:40d70$461e949f$44a4a10d$ snipped-for-privacy@msgid.meganewsservers.com:

You don't live where I live.

Up here (Michigan/NY/southern Ontario) rotors routinely rust solid to the hub flange after a few years on the car. I've used the hammer trick so many times I've lost count. Done right, it works every time.

Reply to
Tegger

You should be able to get something in there. And it's a 19? Even on my Supra I think it's a 17, iirc.

Do you have the dual piston caliper?

Reply to
Hachiroku

Always on the prowl for parts???

Reply to
Ray O

The Chicago area uses a fair amount of salt, but nothing like they do in the northeast, or apparently, like Canada!

It sounds like it might be worth taking the rotors off just to anti-seize them when you get a new car!

Reply to
Ray O

Try one with an 8 mm head.

Reply to
Ray O

Its an 18, my bad. The lower bolt was a 19, or at least thats what it came off with. The top one isn't coming off, but fortunately it doesn't matter. Single piston

Reply to
Joe

(the dual pistons bolt right on to an '88 Supra... ;)

Reply to
Hachiroku

On Apr 12, 8:33 pm, Tegger wrote: I've used the hammer trick so many

Hmmm...this sounds like a setup for telling me I did it wrong, because it didnt work!

But a final, frustrated home run swing with a heavy ballpeen on the friction surface sure popped it off quick. The rotor was no good anyway.

Reply to
Joe

"Ray O" wrote in news:4b2e7$461f14f0$47c2b532$ snipped-for-privacy@msgid.meganewsservers.com:

I think it's more that we have a longer winter with more moisture. Our weather is virtually identical to Detroit MI, so you can compare Detroit weather with Chicago's to get an idea of the difference.

Doesn't help. I've tried that. Anti-seize just washes off with the road splash.

Reply to
Tegger

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