Anybody installed DOT braided brake lines?

I haven't done the switch on a Porsche, but I did do it to my 1981 Nissan 280ZX Turbo at about the 18 year mark (and 175K miles). Subjectively, liked the pedal feel better (seemed firmer) but objectively I can't say braking distances improved (certainly not dramatically).

I did this in conjunction with adding Nissan cross-drilled rotors. The car may not have stopped any better but the rotors looked cool!

I've got these on my 928. I replace them every year as a safety measure.

They d>

I installed Stainless braided brake lines on the front of a Honda VF750R and upgraded to DOT 5 fluid. The brakes felt *stiffer* after the conversion. Don't know if they helped me stop any quicker.

I don't think they do. However, the feel does improve dramatically and if nothing else they are cheaper than a set of stock rubber lines so you might as well do it. (at least they were cheaper on my 944.)

Take your time when working the lines loose, unless you like breaking stuff. The old fittings are likely fairly tight and won't come free without some penetrating oil and maybe even a little heat (as a last resort.) Don't even try to do this without flare wrenches, and if a fitting feels tight, clamp some vice grips on your flare wrenches to keep them from spreading open.

good luck,

nate

Sheldon wrote: : I'm considering installing DOT brake lines on my 911SC to improve the : braking. I know my car isn't supposed to stop like a Buick when you step on : the brakes, but it does seem to take quite a bit of peddle pressure to haul : the car down, and I'm told this is pretty normal for this car.

: Has anybody switched over to the braided brake lines? Notice any : difference?

: I just figure since the car is 25 years old it's time to replace them, and : I'm considering the "upgrade."

We did this on my 86 GTI because the pedal was feeling spongy... solved the problem although I'm not sure it was any better than using regular brake lines though.

From what I remember the braded line was intended for use with real race cars that were running silicone based brake fluid which required higher line pressures. Thus the stainless steel brake web to prevent a blowout!

A Google search for > "braided brake line" +reason < resulted in the following at:

This article even answers the question about, "why never use old brake fluid."

----------- "What are the different types of brake fluid?

The three main types of brake fluid now available are DOT3, DOT4 and DOT5. DOT3 and DOT4 are glycol-based fluids, and DOT5 is silicon-based. The main difference is that DOT3 and DOT4 absorb water, while DOT5 doesn't.

One of the important characteristics of brake fluid is its boiling point. Hydraulic systems rely on an incompressible fluid to transmit force. Liquids are generally incompressible while gases are compressible. If the brake fluid boils (becomes a gas), it will lose most of its ability to transmit force. This may partially or completely disable the brakes. To make matters worse, the only time you are likely to boil your brake fluid is during a period of prolonged braking, such a drive down a mountain -- certainly not the best time for brake failure!

As a DOT3 or DOT4 brake fluid absorbs water, its boiling point decreases. It can absorb water from the air, which is why you should avoid opening your car's brake fluid reservoir. For the same reason, you should always keep containers of brake fluid tightly sealed.

DOT5 fluid does not absorb water. This means the boiling point will remain relatively stable, but it also means that any water that does get into your brake system will tend to form pure water pockets, which could cause brake corrosion.

Two other important things about brake fluid: DOT3 and DOT4 eat paint, so don't spill it on your car. Also, none of the different types of brake fluid should be mixed. They can react badly with each other and corrode your brake system. "

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One good thing to do is to get some Permatex brake lubricant and use it on the hydraulic fittings, so they will not "freeze" (corrode) together,

I am currently restoring the suspension, etc. on my '67 911S and have found some lines frozen together. I only had to make one up from scratch, however. I wire brushed the lines and cleaned them with lacquer thinner, then primed with 2-part epoxy primer, then silver DuPont Imron, all applied wit? an airbrush. I must say, the lines are spectacular when reinstalled.

Anything that can come off the car has been sandblasted, cleaned, primed as above, then painted with Imron.

Another option would be to replace them all with stainless, your home flaring tools may not do stainless but you can send your lines to a company like Classic Tube and they will make you new ones to match. I bought a rear axle set for them for my Studebaker (unfortunately they did not have the patterns for the rest of the car) and it is very nice indeed.

nate

Maybe they don't disagree with what you've posted and feel there is no need to expand on what you wrote.....

Thanks, Jim. I was wondering if my connection was really dead. I didn't write the article it was quoted from a Web Page that was pretty "official".

Seems at least someone would have at least said "thanks, that's interesting" by now. :-(

Not on a porsche but did wonders for my Mustang. When I saw crackes in the rubber ones I did it as an upgrade/upkeep and would highly recommend for agressive driving.

Robert

Two points.

1)You forgot DOT5.1 (also called Super Dot4) 2Dot 3,4,5.1(super 4) are all mixable, but best not, as you might as well flush. Dot 5.1 is not related to Dot5, but instead is a progession of Dot4 hence the sometimes used Super Dot4).

Okay, thanks. I've found that sometimes if you say thanks too early the opinions stop.

I do appreciate the feedback and will probably go for the braided lines. Can't hurt. :-)

Sheldon

Castrol LMA (low moisture activity) is DOT4 easy to find and very good for normal use. Tim