96 SL-1 stumbles for a few minutes

Hey Buster - I think your problem is your fuel pump. A have a 95 that occasionally acts this way too. (It began acting a lot worse after I ran it completely out of gas and then had a heck of a time getting it to run again - I've heard more than once that a fuel pump problem can be aggravated by running it dry.) Sometimes it seems worse after making a left turn.

Unfortunately when I tried to borrow a fuel pressure test guage at AutoZone - it turned out they only had them for sale - not for loaning. Darn thing was over $80.

Theres another guy that posts on this group and says he had a problem for over 2 years before he finally got to the real source of the problem.

Not being completely sure - I'm kindof waiting for mine to give out completely (if that's what it is).

-WAv

Buster wrote:

My 97SL2 had problems.....

This the process that seemed to reduce and later elminate the stalling, rough idling, and spurtering.

1. I cleaned the throttle body.
2. Changed the Coolant Temperature Sensor.
3. Changed plugs and wires.
4. many bottles of Fuel injector cleaners.
5. Later, had the fuel pump replaced(Saturn finally found out it was defective).

1-4 I did myself, #5 was costly. So far this is the first summer without stalls, rough starts, and sputtering.

So from what you said, and what I did, it sounds like you should have your fuel pump checked. You might have a problem with it.

Sorry.

later,

tom @

Try replacing fuel filter first.

----------------- The SnoMan

I have a 95SL2 that had somewhat of the same problem at aprox. 90,000mi. Turned out to be a sticking EGR Valve. When the symptoms got real bad it finally set a Code 32 (I believe) (EGR System Failure). Replaced the EGR valve and no other problems. Did it again at aprox. 180,000mi. Same symptoms, same fix. Something you might look into. EGR Valve not cheap ($105) at AutoZone.

Jerry

I have a 95SL2 that had somewhat of the same problem at aprox. 90,000mi. Turned out to be a sticking EGR Valve. When the symptoms got real bad it finally set a Code 32 (I believe) (EGR System Failure). Replaced the EGR valve and no other problems. Did it again at aprox. 180,000mi. Same symptoms, same fix. Something you might look into. EGR Valve not cheap ($105) at AutoZone.

Jerry

I have a 95SL2 that had somewhat of the same problem at aprox. 90,000mi. Turned out to be a sticking EGR Valve. When the symptoms got real bad it finally set a Code 32 (I believe) (EGR System Failure). Replaced the EGR valve and no other problems. Did it again at aprox. 180,000mi. Same symptoms, same fix. Something you might look into. EGR Valve not cheap ($105) at AutoZone.

Jerry

Back to the bad fuel pump issue. If I just drove the car, and then parked it. My starting habits 'covered' the fact the pump was bad. I would turn the car on (without cranking), buckle up, and then start the car. The moment pause in going ON to Cranking gave time for the fuel pump to refill the system.

Now over night, the system would drain so much, that a moment was too short, so the engine cranked hard, and ran like crap for the first few minutes. Since I had my pump replaced the 97SL2 runs very well.

Ofcourse I still get those mysterious "Check Engine" lights. They solid, never seen flashing, but when I got to an auto zone to have them checked, the light goes out.

later,

tom @

Does it seem to be running lean when cold? The Coolant Temperature Sensor is supposed to tell the engine computer to provide more fuel till the engine warms up. If the CTS is defective and registering a "hot" engine even when cold, then you might have drivability issues. I know you already said you replaced it, but maybe that one was bad? Saturn CTS is known to fail often, is cheap and easy to fix.

Bob

I'm pretty sure it typically fails the "other way" - it goes out with too high a resistance value. Consistantly, it 'indicates' a low temperature condition when that is not the case. It thinks the engine is too cold, and tries to warm it up even when its hot. I know that you can increase EGT by leaning out the mixture, but I dont think that is how it manages to "warm up" the engine. With an over rich mixture (and higher RPMs especially), I think you might be making the engine run warmer, even if EGT is not high.

-WaV

Bob Shuman wrote:

Sorry to hear that. I was just explaining what happened to me, it wasn't meant as a fix. You need to get your car to a qualified mechanic.

tom