Help with coolant leak on '96 SL

Just noticed a small puddle of coolant under my '96 SL. I can't tell where it is leaking from, looks like it is coming off the front (passenger side?) of the engine by the belt and dripping down to the frame, and then running back. I was thinking water pump since it has

130K on it, but I don't see it leaking at the pump, but it is hard to see down there.

My inclination is to get a pump and change it out, but is there anything else that could be leaking? Any tips on pump R&R? It looks like the pump is easy to get to.

Thanks!

Larry

Reply to
Larry G.
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My '92 SL had a leak and it was coming from the prop shaft being worn down, I'd just swap out the water pump. Dave

Reply to
nospam

A pressure test of the cooling system will usually enhance the leak making it easier to locate.

Reply to
BläBlä

Take a close looksee at the weep hole on the pump.

Also, you can try putting a few ounces of flourescent liquid in your rad (you can get that at automotive shops). After a few days shine some black light underneath the engine and hopefully that will tell you where the leak is coming from.

Bl=E4Bl=E4 wrote:

Reply to
navaidstech

IMHO:

I would check the water pump. When the seal fails, there is a weep hole that coolant leaks out of.

Good luck,

tom @

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Reply to
Tom The Great

Not only is it easy to get to, you dont even have to take any hoses off! The replacement part is simply the impeller, its bearings and plate that cover the recess.

-DC

Larry G. wrote:

Reply to
wavy

I just finished this job (95 SW2, 123k mi.) and it wasn't a whole lot of fun. First step is to remove right front wheel and 2 plastic fender well panels. Next remove A/C compressor. (Looked like you had a choice of removing the compressor from the bracket or the bracket from the engine. I opted for the former.) Next remove 3 bolts holding the pulley on the pump. I didn't have enough clearance to get the pulley out, but loosening the torque axis mount to lower the engine a tad got me the little bit I needed. Next there's 6 bolts holding the pump flange to the block. Use some Hi-Tack to stick the gasket to the new pump. Reverse procedure. Duralast AWP-844 = $40 + 2 hrs. work.

Reply to
Chuck

Odd - definately jacked the car up, removed the wheel, panels took the slack of the serpantine belt and stuff but DONT remember having to mess around with the compressor at all. I was able to do the whole job under the fender without much trouble. Less than one hour counting removal and re-adding coolant. Could that be because front end is SW or SL? I didnt think theres much difference. (94 SC-2)

-DC

Chuck wrote:

Reply to
wavy

DC: I'm sure there's no difference between the SW and SL. Removing the compressor is no doubt optional. It definitely made it easier to get at the top water pump bolts.

Reply to
Chuck

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