DIY Timing Belt Replacement

Hi, I replaced timing belt on my 2002 Forester yesterday. Only problem I had was removing crank pulley. I tried conventional methods (strap wrench/breaker bar), but could not budge bolt. I searched NG and learned about the bumping starter method. I was very leary of this method to say the least. I decided to consult my local imports mechanic, he said he used the starter method whenever conventional methods fail. He loaned me a breaker bar, mine was not long enough to reach frame. I carefully positioned breaker bar, one end resting on drivers side frame, making sure to keep bar parallel to crank pulley. I removed plug wires from plugs, bumped starter once and bolt was loose. Rest of job was fairly easy. I used OEM belt and water pump, as many in this NG suggest. The belt has three marks that are aligned to crank and cam sprocket marks. I used a T handle breaker bar in conjunction with a hammer to tighten crank bolt during assembly. Got every thing assembled, hit starter, and was a happy camper, car started and no leak at new water pump gasket. Very productive day, I had to take out a front axle and replace both CV boots before I started on timimg belt job. Thanks to folks in this NG, both jobs went better than expected!

Reply to
phatirejunky
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I only did it once, on my daughter's first car, an old Toyota. It worked fine but was scary - the front of the car rose several inches.

It's worth mentioning even here in a Subie forum that the starter method can't be used on Honda products - those engines turn counterclockwise.

Mike

Reply to
Michael Pardee

You, Sir, are to be congratulated. One point - what torque value did you use to replace the crank pulley? Some say some of the books have a torque too low and it should be higher (120f/lbs IIRC - anyone?)

Regardless, sounds like a very satisfying experience.

Carl

Reply to
Carl 1 Lucky Texan

Reply to
Edward Hayes

The service manual spec. is 130.2(within 3.6 either way). I had to SWAG, no torque wrench. I followed my mechanics advice of using breaker bar as a slugging wrench. After about 20 miles, still tight.

Reply to
phatirejunky

On an automatic, you can lock the drive plate by jamming a breaker bar through the inspection holes into the plate. It is still a bear to get off, though.

Remco

Reply to
Remco

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