In the process of replacing a rear wheel bearing. (1995 Legacy) Finally tonight I got the old bearing out and the new pressed in. The hub has three grease seals. The outer one I figured out but have a question about the two inner/inboard seals. Which way do they go? By this I mean bevel out or bevel in. Should have noted how those inner ones where installed before pulling them but too late now. Thinking only a real Subaru mechanic can answer this but who knows.
John
If you look at one of the seals, you will notice that it has a sort of "G" cross section, with the outer diameter of the seal at the back of the "G", and the seal lip on what would be the bottom of the "G".
Install the seal such that the top of the G faces the bearing/grease, and the seal lip faces out.
Did that make any sense? Basically, the open side of the seal goes toward the lubricated area. This is almost always the case. If the seals you have don't fit this description. send along a foto and I'll try to get a more authoritative answer for you.
ByeBye! S.
Steve Jernigan KG0MB Laboratory Manager Microelectronics Research University of Colorado (719) 262-3101
Makes sense to me. Rather a moot point at the moment. When I went to finish the job this morning I noticed that when I pressed the hub into the knuckle, I also pressed out some of the wheel bearing on the differential side. This is what I get for attempting to replace the bearing in place. Should have just pulled the entire hub/knuckle and went to a machine shop. So, need to get another $100 in parts (another new bearing and 3 more seals) and try it again. Using a Hub Tamer for the first time and it may be great on front wheel bearings but sucks on the rears. Somehow I need to come up with a plan to keep the bearing from squirting out the backside when pressing in the hub.
John
Ad it was hot outside today. Had flashbacks of being in the jungle.
Hot in this part of the world, too.
FWIW, Subaru lists (if I counted right) 5 "special" tools associated with this procedure; all press operations are performed between two tools. They appear to be simply bar stock turned to the required dimensions, but with out access to a metal lathe and a supply of fairly large diameter bar stock . . .
If your listed email works, look for that section of a Subaru service manual. It's from a Forester book, but should be pretty much the same.
Good luck!
ByeBye! S.
Steve Jernigan KG0MB Laboratory Manager Microelectronics Research University of Colorado (719) 262-3101
Steve,
Received the files. Thank you. This nut roll sure has gotten expensive but like to think I am paying for an education.
John
Anyone thinking in the future of replacing the rear wheel bearing, my advice is this:
o Remove the hub. Hammer/extension/1 inch socket works. o With the hub off, remove the 4 bolts that retains the backing plate that has all the E-brake hardware and just remove every thing as a unit. o Don't even attempt to remove the ABS sensor. When it breaks, figure $165 for a new one. No need to remove anyways. o Remove the now bare knuckle from the car, take it and the new parts to a machine shop and have all the pressing in and out done by someone else.
MotorsForum website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.