Starter Repair for Subaru Forester 2002

B wrote:

      Why do you think the starter is bad?

      Rebuilt one at the local auto parts store.   They should also be
able to test the old one.

       Any mechanic should be able to do this.  The few starters I've
changed had only a couple bolts holding them on.  The tough part might
be getting to the starter.  I have no idea how hard it is to get to on
the Forester.

 Not rocket science, any qualified mechanic should be able to handle
it, or a reasonably adept do-it-yourselfer.
But for the love of all that's holy, stay away from sears auto center
if it's anything like it used to be up here before they finally closed
for good!!!!

On Mon, 31 Jan 2011 20:38:02 -0500, clare wrote:


ROFL. I was thinking the same thing. There are a few good mechanics at
Sears, but I usually only go there for shocks/struts.

wrote:


And I'd stay MILES away even for that. If I bought TIRES from them I'd
take them elsewhere for installation (and actually DID at one point.
Their "steelguard" tires were pretty good tires at any price, and the
price was good - but I didn't trust them to put them on my Keystones.

On 1/31/2011 5:38 PM, clare@snyder.on.ca wrote:

*** Just putting this first after overall thoughts*****

First check should be battery-to-engine (and chassis) grounding. It's
not just Soobies, but seems to be endemic on all Japanese built or
designed cars. Also check the battery cables.

****Back to the older thoughts on this*******


(Just as an aside, I don't think your '02 Fartster is that much
different from my '00 Outback)

It's possible that you may have crisped the starter on a bad-batt
episode, but doubtful. Usually, you give up on the starter when it won't
crank.

Starters can fail if you try cranking for a long time on low-battery
voltage, but it's "below 30%" real fail, cranking ceases, so you quit it.

If you had a shorted-cell type batt-fail, even then it should have
started, maybe reluctantly, but I've got some "experience" here.

I'm forever getting snagged by having to turn the ignition switch
"full-on" to use the power windows and forgetting that (plus I don't do
"just DRLs (Daylight Running Lamps, headlights on at about 50-70%
bright). I've disabled the DRL function, and leave the light switch
"full-on" when actually driving at all times. (Remember, Soobie's
'different' on this. the lights only come on in the "full-on-ignition|
position, not ACCessory.)

I don't think I can count the number of times I've done that stunt.
Before I retired, I did "contractor compliance/safety watch" and used my
'00 Outback as the "break/sit/watch room" instead of the "company truck".

Just as an aside, when your vehicle won't crank enough to start, just
shut off everything (full key-off) for about 5-10 minutes and try again.
This usually works, and not just Soobs.


I just did this today, rolled the driver window down while waiting for
my mother at the clinic. I usually catch my screwup when the stereo
craps out (about 9.5-10 volts). It only took about 15 minutes to get
"urr-urr-plonk". I did the "wait-'n crank" and it was a leetle
reluctant, but it caught on the second spin and started.

Every Soob owner should pack a set of "even the cheapies" jumper cables.
If you don't know about the "virgin switch, it WILL happen sooner or later.
http://forums.automotive.com/70/1090929/subaru/rear-tail-lights/index.html


If you were jump-starting it and got the (+) and (-) crossed up, I'd
suspect the electronics (ECU) more than the starter.





AutoZone and Shucks/O'Reilly are "so-so" unless you buy their "lifetime
warranty" versions.

Good replacements are are from NAPA.

This is one item you don't want to buy online. Buy it locally, that way
you can get a replacement without having to ship a heavy lump and *wait*
for the "new one"


Not hardly, Soob starters are easy to get at, need minimal tools. The
worst part is just getting under the vehicle safely to do it.





FWIW; there are "some" good Sears auto shops. Even then, I'd not go
there. Between the  the feds and a lot of state "consumer protection
agencies" the got busted REALLY bad a few years ago.

(a few years ago, we were really hurting on cash, and our Sears card was
at $0, so it was about the only answer for a brake job, new tires and 2
batteries)

Reality is:
Check for an independent "Soobie Specialst" shop in your area. If it's
like "Smart Service" here in the Seattle area, they'll diagnose it for
free, and won't charge an arm and a leg to do the repair.

--
The black flies were coming.
(Alastair Mayer in "Small Penalties")

I agree with everyone else, but, if you post your city/area, someone
may know a good mechanic for soobs. No guarantee, but I've seen it
happen!

good luck

If you do attempt this yourself, not difficult as it requires
basically removing 2 bolts and a nut, make darn sure the first thing
you do is remove the battery cables at the battery. Only reconnect the
battery after the starter is installed.