Tegger, shouldn't see any fuel (ever) on a FI vehicle on the throttle plate-- the injectors are at the bottom of the intake manifold (unless it's using the old GM style). the throttle plate's job is to control air into the manifold, and shouldn't see any fuel.. ;)
Steve
"S.Hansen" wrote in news:dT%Zl.367355$ snipped-for-privacy@bgtnsc05-news.ops.worldnet.att.net:
The TBI Civic has two injectors in the throttle body. The primary injector is /above/ the throttle plate, the aux is /below/ it.
Both are below the tandem valve though, so you need to open that with your fingers like a carburetor's choke to see the throttle plate.
"Chris F." wrote in news:4a381efe$0$23752$ snipped-for-privacy@news.aliant.net:
If you have no spark plug socket, a 5/8" deep spocket will do. You'll just need pliers to pick the plug out of its hole once it's loose.
As for the noid light, that will NOT tell you if spark is actually jumping the gap at the plugs; it will only tell you that the coil is generating sufficient voltage to make a spark somewhere, even if it's grounding in such a way as to avoid jumping the gap.
Well look at you! Most folks would call that thingy a choke plate :-)
Noid lights are for injectors.
Bret wrote in news:8fgjp1g90ebu$. snipped-for-privacy@40tude.net:
Oops! I was thinking of a spark tester.
Toyota MDT in MO wrote in news:EU6_l.21$ snipped-for-privacy@nlpi064.nbdc.sbc.com:
Which thingy would be a choke plate? The bottom doohickey or the top whatsit? Or both?
sure sounds like it. can you put the return line in an empty gas can and cycle the key a couple times to pump out all the old fuel?
nate
Chris F. wrote:
BAD BAD SIGN. That orange color is RUST. Your fuel filter is probably plugged with the stuff and the lines are probably not far behind.
NEVER leave a fuel tank empty unless it is plastic OR it has never had gas in it. The rust will cause you more problems than you want.
Also if this gas is the crap with alcohol in it you can bet it will free up all the crud and plug up things. Like the injectors. Best thing to do would be to pull the lines at the engine. Flush the crap back to the tank. Drop the tank and clean it out. Then replace the filter and try again.
I stand corrected ;) Forgot about the Honda TBI system... Haven't had to do much diag on Honda's anymore. Steve
"Steve W." wrote in news:h1cbc8$c31$ snipped-for-privacy@news.eternal-september.org:
I wonder what it's done to the basket filters in the injectors; they're incredibly fine. Maybe the basket filters are just plugged up? But that by itself wouldn't cause a Code 16, would it?
His tank is steel...
"S.Hansen" wrote in news:xVk_l.370854$ snipped-for-privacy@bgtnsc05-news.ops.worldnet.att.net:
Honda stopped using the TBI system in 1992; it was port-injected across-the-board after '91. That's eighteen years ago, and there are fewer and fewer of those left on the roads, so it's not surprising people are forgetting about it.
There's lots I /don't/ know about Hondas (and tons more I don't know about other makes) that you surely do know.
Well, there's your problem. You have junk gas in there. Your fuel filter is plugged with the rust and varnish and odds are there's a lot of it in the fuel pump too. And I bet the injectors are now totally clogged.
I wish I had an easy suggestion for you, short of dropping the tank. You could try using the fuel pump to pump all the bad gas out, then fill it up with new gas, pump that out, then change the filter and clean the injectors, put a THIRD tank of gas in.
The good news is that modern gas with ethanol in it is a better solvent than older gas, and it will get all of that crap into solution and clean your tank pretty well. The bad news is that when it gets all that crap into solution, it winds up going into your engine.
Don't ever leave a car sitting for long periods with gas in it.
--scott
I had one new car (Chevrolet) that came from the dealership with a rusty tank, and rusted completely through in a few months.
Ran a lot of fuel through it, stopped up the filter many times. Made me suspect that once the rust starts, you may not be able to control it. I know they used to use terneplate to prevent external corrosion, but is the tank internally coated as well?
If so, a new tank may be the only solution.
Many radiator shops can boil the tanks out then coat them internally and externally. I had them do a tank that had sat for 25 years. Recently pulled it again to replace the sender and the coating still looked like new 9 years later.
Steve B.
It's not just rust that is the problem, it's also varnish and nasty products from decaying and evaporating fuel. It's entirely possible that once he gets that stuff out that it'll be fine. It's also possible there is a spreading rust problem like you describe too... but you'll never know until you try.
--scott
"Chris F." wrote in news:4a3a7f54$0$23784$ snipped-for-privacy@news.aliant.net:
You mean you did not notice that horrible tortured-cat noise before this? I had an alternator rust solid on me once, so I know /exactly/ what that sounds like.
Luckily for you, your alternator is easy to replace, unlike in some other Hondas.
More likely the EACV is sticky. Or you're still going through patches of lousy gas. Maybe both.
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