Big problems locating replacement "Fan Control Module" (cooling fan module/variable speed) for 96 Escort LX 1.9L

"Description: Radiator Fan Relay> Manufacturer: STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS> Product Details For:RY-452> Additional Description: 5 Blade Terminal ; w/Low Eng temp ; w/OEM#> F1CZ-8B658C; Years:1991-1996">

Are the pins numbered, i.e. 86, 87 etc, or maybe 30, 31 etc.? If so Bosch more than likely makes an equivalent, probably better, substitute.

Maybe here?:

"Description: Radiator Fan Relay> Manufacturer: STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS> Product Details For:RY-452> Additional Description: 5 Blade Terminal ; w/Low Eng temp ; w/OEM#> F1CZ-8B658C; Years:1991-1996">

Try

Ed

"Description: Radiator Fan Relay> Manufacturer: STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS> Product Details For:RY-452> Additional Description: 5 Blade Terminal ; w/Low Eng temp ; w/OEM#> F1CZ-8B658C; Years:1991-1996">

I did find and search a Bosch site, but found nothing that came close. There were some "relay" entries, but none were similar, and I found no "Fan Control Module" entries. I did try searching for just "module", but didn't find anything there that way.

I could not find any numbers on the pins/prongs themselves, at all. There are no *numbers* at the base of the blue plastic inner housing into which the prongs/pins themselves are inserted/attached, but there are some alpha characters I can barely make out. This is the best I can make out the alphas, as there is some defamation of the plastic probably due to the burnout heat:

NO COM COIL NO (no prong/no ltrs) COIL

The "NO" may be "MO" or something similar, but it's fairly well obscured by damage.

Darn it, I wish this was it. This site lists this part as a true "relay", and IMU my fried part is termed a 'radiator cooling fan' "Fan Control Module."

These should be functional photobucket links to the digital closeups I took of mine. The first is the whole unit, the 2nd is the prong/blades & alignment, and the last two are the front and back of the unit w/the black outter plastic housing removed.

You can see from the 4 shots on photobucket, the below "RY-452" is pretty close, but I can't determine from that image what the prong/ blade alignment is.

> I appreciate your help!!

I thought I might be getting close with "RY375 {RELAY - HVAC BLOWER MOTOR}" but the prong/blade alignment is off by one. In that one the 'blank spot' where there is no pin is shown at the far left, top stack. In my fried one, the 'blank spot' in in the center of its row, w/blades to the far left and right of the blankspot/center of the row.

The also listed a "RY225T {TRU-TECH} Air Conditioning Cooling Fan; 2 Blade Terminal", but of course I need a 5-blade terminal and not a "2 Blade".

It's becoming quite maddening, I'm afraid. I DO appreciate you help!

I've been trying that site for it's catalog most of the day, but I keep getting a "The server at

is taking too long to respond." msg in Firefox. I had figured for sure that could very well be the only source - but darn if I can get to their actual online catalog.

Browser error resolved. Searching now.

Part RY375 is not the correct blade/prong alignment. And it's the only part shown that otherwise appears to be a potential replacement for my fried one.

RY602 is one of the only other 2 applicable for the 1.9L engine, but it is listed as a 4-blade terminal.

RY225, is a 2-blade terminal.

RY227 is for a 1.8L and even so, it isn't close and doesn't appear to be an alternative.

*sigh* I could just kick Ford in the shins......

Found this in a forum for you.

Lynde

09-21-2005, 11:45 PM The engine cooling fan in a 96 Ford Escort LX 1.9 liter is not turning on. Does anyone know how or where to verify if it is the cooling fan or the relay that is bad ? Where can I place a jumper to test cooling fan motor?

Any help would be greatly appreciated!!!

I think your vehicle has an intergrated relay system also known as the CCRM (constant control relay module) located under the battery/ air filter area. You might have to replace it. ( Black rectangle flat metal box. With one connector going to it with about 50 wires. I believe the bolt size is a 5.5mm.that hold the CCRM down (4)and the corrector bolt to release the harness is a 7mm. ) If you can verify that the Fan itself is not the fault. Just run some wires directly to the battery from the connector on the fan. hag

10-03-2005, 02:22 PM The 96 Escort uses a relay in the underhood fuse block (marked "Ignition") to power up the low and high speed coolant fan relays, which are mounted to the driver's side fender behind the air cleaner box. Remove the air cleaner box, and there they are hiding in their rubber boots. Any one or all three relays can be bad, and usually you can see signs of melted connectors when they fail. They are all rated for 20 amps. I have replaced mine with 30 amp relays, which didn't plug into the stock connectors. I had to custom wire them.

Hag Lynde

10-04-2005, 09:17 PM The 96 Escort uses a relay in the underhood fuse block (marked "Ignition") to power up the low and high speed coolant fan relays, which are mounted to the driver's side fender behind the air cleaner box. Remove the air cleaner box, and there they are hiding in their rubber boots. Any one or all three relays can be bad, and usually you can see signs of melted connectors when they fail. They are all rated for 20 amps. I have replaced mine with 30 amp relays, which didn't plug into the stock connectors. I had to custom wire them.

Hag Another way to see if the fan is bad is just turn on the A/C. The fan should come on. It can run off of three different relays, the high speed, the low speed or the A/C relay.

Thanks! The thread(s) do bring up some very relevant points. (And I should mention this saga actually began ~4 wks. ago when the AC stopped producing cooled air, despite the compressor being noticeably active and so on. After AC system service, all was right w/the world for a week or so, then the car overheated - which I learned was due to the fan control module/relay having failed. Since no replacement 'relay' could be quickly located, shop 'jump wired' the fan to run whenever the engine was running. Which was so-so ok a temporary resolution.....until the wire dislodged. Rinse...repeat ;)

1) CCRM and verify fan motor/fan itself not at fault.

• I believe they did this at the NAPA shop. The fan motor does 'run', and we know this because they did 'jump wire' it so I can at least get around in this heat while they/we search for this #$&#% part. ;)

(As you might guess from inferring my 'bad luck', the first & temp fix w/to wire it directly - and of course, a few days later in the height day's heat & on the freeway, the dumb wire dislodged. Once things were cool enough to touch under the hood, the first thing I did was ensure that the fan blades were not frozen up, that no fluid leaks had appeared in the area of the water pump, etc.)

As for failure in other parts or components: the compressor does kick in/on, and remains kicked in even though the cooled air now ceases after 2 miles of daytime driving. This is while the fan motor itself is still operating the 'jump wired' fan, as well. I can both hear the compressor doing its thing when I depress the AC selector pushknob, and I can feel the effect on the motor & see RPM changes.

2) underhood fuse block .... Yep. That's exactly where this stupid part came from, underneath that, beneath the air filter box, down exactly as that post described including the location of the fuse block w/in the engine compartment. Interesting, tho, the post states "they are all 20 amps" relays. According the markings on my fried part, it is a 10 amp? ("DC12V10A"). Yep, "stock connectors" may very well be something that shop w/end up having to modify, in order to use any compatible part we can find - since it seems that one w/correctly aligned blades/prongs may not exist! 3) fan speeds..... yes, despite the cooling fan running now on the temporary 'jump wiring', it supposedly does have variable speeds. I don't know if it's at all related, but the variable speed/volume "fan" that blows air into the passenger compartment is still working properly and w/variable speeds via the hand selector on the console.

I continue to REALLY appreciate your help!!!

Get a schematic. Otherwise, you have no business messing around with the electrical system.

To test it, put a voltmeter from ground to the contact going to the fuse/battery. There should be 12v there. Move the voltmeter to the other contact. It should read 12V when the coil is energized. Put a voltmeter across the coil to check wether or not it is energized.

Without putting down your quest for a new part, have you checked any local wrecking yards to see if you could find a working relay there? It would appear ford is giving you the "Why don't you just buy a new car, dammit.." shoulder, and if they won't sell you the part new then going used from the wrecker may be your only option.

Chris

Getting a used one from a wrecking/salvage yard may end up being the only alternative, but I'm giving it the 'ol college try first. Mechanic's shop has ongoing relationship with one or more in the area, so if that's what we have to do I'm going to let him handle it - and ask him to get 2 or 3 while he's at it so at least we'd have them on hand.

Ford can take a flying leap as far as I'm concerned.... it's not like they've learned to wire a car yet! :D

Thank you for the testing procedure info, but I should point out that the portion of text you quoted was not authored by either me or Steve Walker - it is text from a thread elsewhere Mr. Walker located as related in subject matter to my original inquiry (which is the opening post in this thread). Neither of us the "Lynde," the author of the text you quoted.

I believe the NAPA-certified shop mechanic(s) that have been working on my Escort and who located the specific radiator cooling fan "module"/relay which I am trying to locate an appropriate replacement for, have tested as you instructed and more so. Because it has been weeks and the proper replacement part has not been located, I told the shop I would try to find it or a source for it online - as they do not have or use the Internet at the shop.

Thank you again for your information and concern.

That's NO as in NORMALLY OPEN. You have two SPST switches with one leg of each connected to common, and a 12V coil.

You can use any relay of this configuration with a little rewiring. In a pinch you could use two SPST relays.

--scott

I am in Toronto Canada.

A local Ford Dealer to me can have the part in 24 hours.

Their name is Yonge-Steels Ford Lincoln Sales Ltd.

Phone # 905-889-7343.

It costs $30.00 Canadian.

The part number is DY 865.

I was bored, one phone call had it.....

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's - Gone to the rust pile... Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! Jan/06 (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

I have glanced at my version of your car's wiring diagram, and it calls this part the 'cooling fan high speed relay'. Like at least one other poster mentioned, this 5 pin relay is a simple, albeit high current capacity part. With a knowledge of what is necessary to properly select and wire up a generic replacement relay safely, you could be on the road in about one hour.

I also could see rearranging the wire terminals at the fan motor so that the 'cooling fan low speed relay' would turn the fan on high anytime the A/C was on or coolant temp exceeded 220*F (if you wanted to drop the bad relay all together).

I do not see reference to a CCRM (Command Control Relay Module) as other(s) have suggested. Some Fords do not use a CCRM, so this comes as no shock.

Toyota MDT in MO

Check here also:

US $14.65 plus shipping.

SPST - ("Single Pole Single Throw"), right? I had to look that up ;) (Never hear it before, and don't understand squat about how electricity works.)

"Rewiring" is exactly what I'm going to propose to the mechanic Wednesday as a part of the remedial fix.

----- ----

Mike Roma>A local Ford Dealer to me can have the part in 24 hours.

Thanks! I appreciate that info. We've had so much trouble matching the reality of which relay came out of the car, with what the various parts books have indicated was "the right one" - only to find w/ repeated tries that the ones specified in the books actually would not fit and/or didn't work. With that in mind, I googled up part DY-865. Alas, based on the specs I found for it and the online images, it may well not be the right one after all.

The GSRPs indicated several things, including that DY-865 and DY-864 are for Ford disels; it's also a 4-blade "relay, electronic engine control (Assembly) DY-865 Universal Relay" for " FORD (202) yrs.

1983-1994 and AEROSTAR (9) 1986-1992"; and rockauto.com lists DY-864 as "1987 LINCOLN CONTINENTAL 5.0L 302 cubic inch V8 MFI (F) Electrical- Switch & Relay". "Multi Purpose Relay Auto Parts" are listed as part numbers DY-864 to DY-867.

But I sure appreciate your time in checking it out!

-- -----

Comboverfish wrote:

Thank you!!! This is going to be my plan and I'm going to have to insist that the shop tell me whether they can accomplish this work- around or not. After much online searching, the relay that seems to come the closest is at autopartsgiant.com - their "Standard Motor RY-452 Radiator Fan Relay 5 Blade Terminal ; W/low Eng Temp ; W/oem# F1cz-8b658c; Years:1991-1996".

The reason I was hesitant to go for this one initially was due to blade alignment descrepancies between the fried one here in my hand and the image the site displays for this part. The image *appears* to depict only 3 blades - which directly contradicts the product description. So.... I got to thinking: it's the same in all other respects (best as I can determine) *except* for the picture showing only 3 blades.

When I called their C-serv, the young man I spoke with told me they get all their info from the mfg/supplier - including the part's image. That being the case, it seems likely that the pic simply doesn't match exactly and I should rely on the actual product description.

If the mechanic tells me to 'go for it', either he or I can order that one and if need be I'll ask the shop to PLEASE just re-do whatever wiring is necessary in the car to accomodate the RY-452.

That also sounds like a good alternative, especially if RY-452 and any necessary rewiring of what it connects to won't work out.

Good to know! I was sure I'd read this, but figured it would be something else to ask the shop to check out just in case. Now I don't have to sound like an idiot :)

-------

Steve wrote:

I checked out the DY-865 shown at the link. My browser didn't pick up an image for that, and the description is just "Relay" - but it's likely the same DY-865 the Canadian Ford dealer specified to Mike Romain. I dredged up info about that one, and it doesn't seen like it applies.

Thanks again for your continued help and interest, though!!

So..... the plan is to Wednesday (a) call C-serv for autopartsgiant.com for availability on RY-452 (no location info on website beyond 800 phone number, but whois comes back to an address not far out of Los Angeles proper - so hopefully shipping won't take too long), and (b) call shop again (they were too busy today to spend time on the phone w/me) and propose RY-452 plus any rewiring as required.

Thank you very much to everyone for all your help, info and time!

He had to cross reference the out of service part by the commentary I was hearing. It took him a while to do.

I would suspect it's the right part, ....

DY 865 is the right description as a 5 pin relay. It can have many use, relays are common.

Mike