Hello out there?
> I recently saved a 1964 Rambler American from the crusher.
> I believe that it has been sitting for some time given the 1968
>inspection sticker and the fact that the lot it sat on has been
>abandoned for recent memory. New owners decided to clear it out and
>gave me my pick of the junk pile. Anyway, after cutting the rotted
>tank-pump line an subbing a rubber hose going into a gas can,
>installing a new condenser, hotwiring her, and making my own set of
>new points, she fired right up on the second beat. She didn't even
>smoke a little, as I would expect. I have much respect for AMC now! >
> Anyway, here's the problem. The linkage to the column shift
>(3-speed stick) was disconnected. I reconnected it the only way it
>would go in, which seems to be correct since the eyes at the end of
>each rod line up in neutral. The shifter seems to have a normal shift
>pattern, though perhaps not as positive as it should be. However,
>with the clutch pedal all the way down it still clashes and won't go
>into gear. The clutch seems to feel normal and the pedal is hooked
>up. What's wrong? Someone suggested that the clutch was frozen to the
>flywheel; others have no advice.
>
>Thanks in advance for your help,
>
>Jeremiah
Could be. Try putting it in gear, push in the clutch and then try cranking the engine. That MIGHT free it up.
You are both sayig the same thing, start it in gear, shifting it into gear before starting the engine.
One thing I thought of for this method, if the parking brake works, use it. It will give that much more for the clutch to remain stuck against and will help prevent the car from taking off.
I have done exactly this to get a few clutches unstuck. I never used the parking brake though. You may need to give it a good jerk with the throttle after the engine fires, and maybe a coupla times. I recommend not using the parking brake, but give yourself plenty of road or driveway etc. Good Luck, tell us how it turns out.
believe that it has been sitting for some time given the 1968
(3-speed stick) was disconnected. I reconnected it the only way it
With the brakes on! (assuming they work.)
I have to do this every time I leave my '62 Stude sit for more than a month or so. Similar resurrection story to your car, although mine was stored in a shed. I'm fairly certain that this is your problem, although at some point you may have to drop the tranny and replace the throwout bearing. But you won't know that until you start driving the car...
Judging from your message it looks like you have the classic column shift 3-speed; those linkages weren't that great when new and don't tend to improve with age. To get anything resembling reliable shifting I would highly recommend replacing all the engine and transmission mounts and then adjusting the linkage per the shop manual (you may want to invest in one of those, if you can find it.) As a stop gap measure (and please excuse me if I'm insulting your intelligence here, I have no idea whether you're of the generation familiar with these things - I know I'm not, but I have worked on enough of them 'cause I'm an old car junkie) have someone hold the shifter in the neutral gate and crawl under the car and adjust the shift rods so that they will slip in and out of the holes in the arms at the bottom of the column easily. Then tighten up the 1st-reverse rod a half turn or so.
If you're *real* lazy, here's how to shift a balky column shifter. Start off in first, then when you want to shift to second, push in the clutch and move the shifter up towards reverse almost to the point of kissing the gears. Then drop it back down to the neutral gate then forward and up into second. Looks funny but works... after a week or so of that, depending on your personality you will either give up and follow my advice in the first paragraph or else decide it's an anti-theft feature and drive it that way forever, or at least until it becomes *so* sloppy that it just doesn't work at all anymore :)
Finally, congrats on your find but keep in mind that this car HAS been sitting for a long time... I'd plan on complete changes of all fluids, including a full grease job and fresh gear oil in tranny and rear end, and repacking the wheel bearings and rebuilding/replacing all the brake-related hydraulic cylinders and new brake hoses. Anything rubber in the car (belts, hoses - including fuel line - etc.) should be considered suspect at best also. I wouldn't be surprised if the engine leaks like a seive as well - you may need to replace the main seals, oil pan gasket, valve cover gaskets, etc. Only then would I consider the car really road-ready... also take a good hard look underneath and make sure the tinworms haven't eaten away at anything structurally important before you go nuts spending a lot of time getting a rustbucket running. While you're under there, check out the condition of the suspension bushings (which are probably dry rotted and need replacement) New tires are probably a must at this point too...
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