1999 Camry valve cover gasket and tube seals

I took my 99 Camry in for a maintenance tune-up and the shop manager later called me and advised that the valve cover gasket and tube seals had to be replaced (additional $110).

Earlier, I had instructed him to hold the spark plugs that were being replaced so I could examine them. He showed me one plug that appeared to have oil on the stem, but the tip and gap appeared almost identical to the remaining three plugs. All four plugs appeared normal and I don't understand why the valve cover gasket and tube seals would need to be replaced. When he called me to tell me that the gasket and seal would need to be replaced, he said it was because they were damaged but after I looked at the gasket and the seals, they did not appear to be damaged. When I pressed further for the reason when I went to pick the car up, he said it was for preventive maintenance. Has anyone experienced this before?

Reply to
Bohol B via CarKB.com
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When he says "preventive maintenance," he means he needs it on his boat, courtesy of ripping you off.

Reply to
Wayne55dud

I'm at a bit of a loss when discussing service with someone who does not do their own work. I've had a litany of complaints stretching back for years nearly every single time I have had a mechanic do anything to any number of different make and model vehicles, although, in general, some of the dealers have done a better job. Once a GM dealer service department replaced a defective diode in a rebuilt alternator I had installed and that was impressive, but the local Toyota service department stripped a distributor hold down bolt and then denied it --- and the list goes on -- much longer. But back to your question. Valve cover gasket and tube seals for preventative maintenance? Sure, I've replaced them, and plan to replace them at every major service interval when I replace the timing belt. Here's a simple example of the benefits of doing my own work -- recently spent as much for tools as I would have for Toyota service, but discovered when changing the right front axle assembly that the prior mechanic had neglected to replace the bearing lock bolt, and since the local dealer whom I was considering have do the work hadn't ordered one either, I can only assume it would have been missed again even though the factory service manual list this as a "non reusable part" - and with good reason - the tip is neoprene, and when I removed the old bolt - the tip that actually locks the bearing rotation, was missing. Now I have the tools to change the ball joints, struts, springs, axles, etc., and was able to inspect them as well. Plus using the full polish high torque air gun with the 30mm impact socket for the axle nut was fun and effortless once I learned how to hold it properly and let it do the work. So, when you're dealing with dealers and their service department writers you'll have to decide for yourself. Personally, I'm not sure it's worth it. The standard procedure is to buy a car and replace it every few years. I'm convinced that one reason cars need periodic replacement is that mechanics under time pressure make little shortcomings that accumulate over time. If you could find a good mechanic or learn to do your own work, where you take the time to clean and examine each assembly as you go, with the pride of workmanship that derives from servicing your own vehicle, your Toyota can last virtually indefinitely. Case in point: my 1977 Toyota pick up truck still operates flawlessly, and the 1994 Camry is as clean under the car as when new. Not a drop of oil anywhere, but . . . I've learned to replace all those oil seals your dealer is describing to you - plus many others, as a part of routine maintenance. If you do not replace oil seals, the car will still run. Once had a VW (in college) where I decided to rebuild the engine when it started using a quart a week - still ran fine though. Same with your Camry. Most people just let the oil leaks accumulate, rather than pay the cost of fixing them, then eventually replace the car. If you learn to enjoy doing your own mechanical work, then the cost of oil seals is minimal, usually only a few dollars apiece.

Reply to
Daniel

Excellent advice. The valve cover gasket and tube seals cost about $14. Fel-Pro VS50304R ($13.54 on rockauto.com).

It's a good idea to replace these seals as Daniel mentioned. You do have to have some tools (such as the large spark plug tube socket) and a small amount of sensor safe RTV (a tube costs $4) to install this set.

The problem is not whether or not this should be replaced but the changing excuses your dealer is giving you.

So consider picking up a Haynes/Chilton repair manual and think about doing it yourself.

Reply to
johngdole

Reply to
Bohol B via CarKB.com

Reply to
Bohol B via CarKB.com

Your comments just brought up some other interesting points. This same shop replaced my timing belt a few months ago, and if replacing the gasket is normal during that type of service, then they should have already replaced the gasket then. I'll have to check my receipt to see the work detail that was done back when the timing belt was replaced.

I was told that the seals automatically come with the gasket when you get the part and that was the rationale behind changing the gasket as well. It infuriates me, because I feel that I was charged for doing something that didn't really need to be done!!!!

Daniel wrote:

Reply to
Bohol B via CarKB.com

The valve cover gasket and the timing belt are not related. BTW, when I bought the Camry, I didn't even know how to change the air filter, so reading the Internet groups over time helped me learn how to change the timing belt, RH drive axle and oil pan gasket. The reason I change the seals along with the timing belt, was advice I read some time ago from "Cliff": (and I added a few items of my own) (btw, I bought a special tool from toolsource.com to install the cam seal which made it very simple) ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~= ~~

We replace the VC gasket and tube seals, cam seal, front crank seal, oil pump seal, oil pump oring, tensioner (add spring) and idler bearings, drive belts, water pump (add gasket or O ring) and thermostat (add thermostat gasket) as well as the timing belt. We use only OE or OEM parts. That repair here in Austin is about $950

add: PCV valve and grommet, radiator cap, fuel filter, timing belt cover gaskets, alternator brushes and holder (part number "27370-35060", this is brushes and holder), fuel tank cap gasket -

77316-16010, wiper blades, gas cap, Cliff Car is a 94/4 cyl Camry, and I see there is a revised tensioner

Jon, here is what I do on that 4 cylinder, first, the springs we use are #2 plated (kinda gold) orginal was silver. I set the belt in place so the drive side is as tight as possible, then release the tensioner, now

wihtout moving anything, I will use a prybar and pry the idler real tight (tensioner bolt is still lose) so as to remove and slack. Make sure the water pump[ cogs are indexed intot he belt. Now tighten the tensioner bolt, roll it over 2 revolutions at the crank, loosen the tensioner bolt, pry out slack again, release the tensioner and tighten the set bolt. Note, I never tighten the belt using the tensioner, only let the spring adjsut, I only pry to remove any slack as the small spring is not enough by itself. After the 2 revolutions, check all timing marks to see if it stayed in place.

Its tough, you will still need to remove the entire pump housing, as some of the bolts that holt it together are the same ones that hold it to the block, you will always want to replace the o-rings/gaskets anyway. So I guess remove the entire pump, install just the cover on the bench and re-install.

Yes, there is 3 along the edge (left) that hold it to the block, the lower bolt int he alt bracket and the lower idler has to come off, along with the obviuos pipe near the thermostat housing.

Nothing, it will be a leaker!

=A0

Thanks for the help, and if you have time, I have a few more questions please.

When you say "drive side" which side is that?

When you say pry the idler, you mean the tensioner idler/roller with the slot that is not bolted tight?

Does the pwr steering pump have to be removed?

Do the spark plugs have to be removed? I have done other T-belt changes with them left in.

After you unbolt and remove the dogbone/support rod, what about the aluminum bracket that is over the timing covers. Is this removed during a T-belt change? The two bolts that attach this bracket to the engine are very close to the frame, and seem like they would not come out unless the engine is out of the car?

Lastly, what size driver do you use or how do you install the cam and crank seals? Room to drive the cam seal seems very tight.

Thank you very much for your time, it is very appreciated.

Jon

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=A0

ndensoyzza2 wrote:

Its the left hand side

Yes.

No

No, they can stay. It will make rolling the engine over easier though.

It does need to come out, but its much easier to get to if you remove the crank pulley first, then get those bolts from the underside.

Crank seal, I push it in with my hand, then gently drive it flush with a flat drift. As for cam seal, I use a special installer I bought, without it, its best if you remove the valve cover and the cam cap to do the seal. Dont forget to apply some lube on the new seal lips.

Reply to
Daniel

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