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V C Gasket\Valve Adjust\Tune-Up Dealer Pricing in Michigan

2nd Toyota Truck '95 4x4 Pickup (NOT Tacoma) 22-RE - Stock Aluminum Century Cap -love it! (Fiberglass too heavy) Rancho 5 stage adjustable shocks Stock springs Stock- sized BFG's All-Terrain TA/KO (Tried bigger tires-didn't work well-forget hills in West Virginia-can't afford gear ratio change front/rear) Always have used synthetic oil - Castrol Syntech or Mobile 1. Looking into other brands.

Hi Folks,

Just wanted to get some opinions. I've been in a long term argument with a lot of people about where to get my truck serviced when it comes to more advanced work i.e. engine, brakes, etc. Since I am not a trained and licensed technician I didn't want to even touch my truck when it came to a valve-cover gasket replacement ( it was leaking). Since the truck was old 9 years/99,000 miles I thought I would take it in and have a valve-cover gasket replacement, valve-adjustment, plugs replaced and I had new belts and a new cap and rotor-what the hell. Half of the group says I can take it to a corner mechanic that works on domestic autos to have the valves worked on and the other half say take it to a Toyota dealer because they have the proper reference materials/guides/books/metric calibration data/parts ordering and the experience of working specifically on Toyotas. I think it is best to take it to the latter, pay more, and have it done right--even though it costs. What are the opinions of the group? I took it to a local Toyota dealer that has been very honest in my area (Southeast Michigan) - there have been some dealers that haven't been to good to me. And, for the folks that say a corner mech can do the job I had a sister who took her Celica to one and he messed it up and had to abandon the project to a Toyota dealer in the long run. The total price at this dealer for V C Gasket replace\Valve Adjust\Tune-Up\Plugs and new belts was $600.00. That price is just sickening!!!

Next project is the timing chain - dealer reported "noise" on that and WARNED that it is **EXPENSIVE**-- what is the cost? Hope it lasts! I am at 99,000 miles.

Muffler-- I am going to do that myself.... personally, I think all exhaust stuff is overrated unless you really want to have a 100% good-looking and sounding vehicle. I keep the salt pressure-washed off the underbody so I am not really needing anything fancy. I have done some research and know the effects of an exhaust that is too big or too small. I am looking to avoid burned exhaust valves, tickets from the police and MAYBE some environmental pollution. I am considering buying my own flex-pipe and clamps. What size exhaust pipe is on this truck? 2 inch ? 1 3/4 inch ? How do you measure? Interior diameter or overall? I don't really want anything but headers and a straight pipe behind the engine but I don't need a ticket either! This truck isn't for show - it is for light towing and for work and a daily commuter vehicle.... occasionally road trips to the South, Florida, etc.

Thanks in advance!!!!

Dave

Reply to
TravelByShipMICH
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Gulp - seems more like $250 worth of work to me. You don't have to be trained or certified to adjust the valve or replace the valve cover gasket and a few belts. I'd go with an honest corner mechanic for all but electronics and transmission work. At $600 for that I can see the timing chain costing $1600! They rarely go at only 99k miles - especially if you have changed the oil at proper intervals. Whne he had the valve cover off did he look and see a broken chain guide? The 22RE is a noisy engine to begin with -- suspect you have another 30-40k before it needs to be replaced. The stock exhaust is like 1 7/8" OD. I went with a Bosol on my 4 Rnr -- one piece for like $120 (Olympic Auto Parts) and guaranteed for life (had it replaced once already after 3-4 years). On my PU I have a Walker system - muffler only is guaranteed.-- I'm on second muffler, 2nd connecting pipe and third tail pipe. Pain to get it not to leak due to all the connections. If you want noise at least go with a flowmaster muffler.

occasionally

Reply to
Wolfgang

Well! I almost barfed when I saw they charged you $600 for that work. But then, they charged me $130 labor to troubleshoot and replace a starter in a

  1. I only went for it because I didn't have time, couldn't figure out how to get the top bolt back on (and I previously had a horror story with a starter on a different truck). That 0 certainly exceeds all sense. Anybody can adjust valves, replace belts, and replace valve cover gaskets. You can. It just hurts when you burn your hands on the head adjusting the valves. There are lots of people at
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    say it can be done cold (I always suspected that -- cannot believe thefactory screws around adjusting them hot. About timing chains. They stretch, get noisy. Then on the Toyotas the stupid guides break and whamo, the chain cuts into the housing and the coolant leaks into the oil. I had a dealer tell me at 120k that I needed a timing chain job for 00. I read the newsgroups about failures happening anywhere from 80k to 200k. I got scared, took off the valve cover, looked at the guides and chain -- they looked great. I measured the backlash -- I'd say < 8 degrees at the crankshaft. I put the cover back on and worried about the chain for the next 2 years, checking it twice a year. I finally gave up caring and the chain is still fine at 195k. I'm sure it has stretched more, so what.

Finding a good mechanic is hard. Everyone screws up sometime. My best mechanic is me, and I'm not that good.

When you go to a dealer you get knowledge and Toyo parts. You also get a different mechanic every time. And maybe he finds some extra work your car needs cause that day he is behind on the rent, or has a kid's birthday coming up. Maybe you get the guy described to me by a friend who once worked at a BMW dealer. This guy, an official BMW technician, had a novel way of adjusting valves: he cleaned the valve cover off real good. Or maybe he just isn't that good and the dealer hasn't figured it out yet.

I have had work done by 2 Toyota dealers. Each has made me real happy some days, each has given me shoddy work on others.

Your best bet is to (FIX IT YOURSELF!) find a good mechanic that you can expect to work personally on your car. One who has experience on your car. One that uses good parts. One that has enough business that he doesn't need to make work. One who doesn't mail out coupons. One who checks out the car before telling you what is wrong. Don't expect a bargain, though. I've found that many shops that have been around awhile aren't much cheaper than the dealer. And then realize that he may make a mistake too. And don't be like my sister: if says he doesn't kow how to fix your kind of car, find someone who does.

Jim

P.S. Exhausts are one thing I think you should take to a good exhaust shop unless you are going to just bite the bullet and replace everything you can bolt on (i.e. cat to back or cat to front) - sometimes this is cost-effective. Unless you have a torch and can weld. If you buy Toy parts you probably will be bolting on as described. If you buy aftermarket the parts almost never fit the old pipes.

occasionally

Reply to
James Andrus

$600 to change 4 plugs that retail at $1 to $3 each Cap and rotor retail at $20 The valve adjustment takes one hour The gasket retail is $10 The labor to R&R the plugs, cap, and rotor 1 hour.

the Shop rate is what $80/hr?

Price should have been about $200 total.

They just SCREWED you. they are NOT honest.

occasionally

Reply to
I'm Right

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