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A few general questions...

First two questions relate to brakes.

First I have a 68 Bug I have been working on for about a year. I need to do a little more on the brakes. Ie 2 Ruber hoses in the back, Metal line from the front to the back and bleed the brakes. the Master Cylinder is new but has some surface rust. Will I have to re-do anything since I haven't worked on it ina while?

On my 71 Super Beetle I just got out of the shop. It takes a little while to stop the car. Though I haven't slamed on the brakes yet. Do I need to adjust them oris it m,e not being use to driving a VW?

Where can I get the metal that is between the engine and back sea?. Mine is rusted out.

One last question. My VW Mechainc put in a rebuilt engine and it is making a noise becuase it is rubbing the housing. He pulled the motor at least twice but couldn't fix it. he said he didn't think it was a problem and that the sound would probably go away. Is this anything I should worry about. It is loud but drives great but I haven't driven it a long distance yet till I get seat belts, Insurance and tags.

Thanks Steven

Reply to
Noice87
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Noice87 kirjoitti:

If you have a problem, you need to fix it.. if you don't, you don't... :D Wouldn't it be more logical to find out, instead of have us guess? LOL

Make sure the wheel cylinders operate properly, and return easily when you lift your foot off the pedal. Make sure the handbrake cables are nice and greasy, and move without binding. Adjust the brakes properly.

Drum brakes all around? They sucked when they were new, compared to having discs up front. If you have new brake shoes in there, it takes a while for them to settle in and reach their full braking power. You also need to re-adjust them frequently until they have settled.

No clue.

Remove fan belt, and start the engine for a couple of SECONDS to determine if the noise came from the fan assembly or not. Do not run the engine for longer than 30 seconds or it may overheat.

If the noise is still there, see if the crank pulley is rubbing against the engine tin behind it (between pulley and case).

Jan

Reply to
Jan

Here is the part I was talking about

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Can I cut one out of another car if it isn't rusted out? I may be geeting another parts car.

Thanks for the advise so far.

Thanks Steven

Reply to
Noice87

yes...you can use any metal from a donor car you wish, as long as the cars are the same era....and alot of parts were the same throughout production...

Reply to
Joey Tribiani

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From that aircooled.net page, it would appear that is one of those that didn't change.

Hmmm...I wonder if you could put a little door in part of that. Make it easy to check the clutch cable.

Reply to
Michael Cecil

Noice87 kirjoitti:

Sure you can... but show me one that isn't rusted :)

Jan

Reply to
Jan

Michael Cecil kirjoitti:

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That's what I always do to mine :)

other benefits: gives you easier access to the starter, throttle cable, and engine mounting bolts.. and exhaust studs... transmission oil fill.. swing axle boots...

Jan

Jan

Reply to
Jan

sure you *could*...but why would you? the clutch cable is a breeze even without an access hole....i've seen folks hack away at the package tray to get to the starter too...never understood that either....

Reply to
Joey Tribiani

You're the one......

Reply to
Joey Tribiani

It is the duty of all red-blooded males to install as many "Bond like" trap doors into their vehicles as possible!

Reply to
Michael Cecil

It's an Automatic so no Clutch.

It was shimming at 35 MPH but I put in about 50+ pounds of Tokens and that fixed it. I am goign to add some more pounds later.

Thanks Steven

Reply to
Noice87

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