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a few questions

I have a 1194 Mazda B2300 pickup with a 2.3L MFI and 5 speed manual trans. This truck is made by Ford and is identical in style to the Ranger. I have

105000 miles on it. It ran good until recently when my problems started.

My first problem is my alternator gauge and idiot light comes on and off. It does not matter what speed I running in or what gear. Some times it indicates normal and others it goes low. I checked the battery and it has a full charge and I hooked a volt gauge to the alternator to check output and it seems to be working fine. Along with this problem my truck will not start occasionally. I first thought that the belt was slipping so I installed a new belt. The problem still existed. I cleaned battery terminals. Someone told me that the solenoid could be getting hot causing my problem. When the truck acts up the solenoid is not warm. I have replaced the alternator and took it back off to get tested. It tested good. Any suggestions?

My AC blows hot air then starts blowing cold air. I had a leak in the system and changed the evaporator and dryer. Vacuum was pulled on the system and recharged. It worked fine for about a month then while driving down the highway it will just start blowing hot air. Then it will go back to normal. The system has a full charge and the truck is not running hot. The compressor is cutting out when it does this. I was wondering if there could be a faulty passing gear switch. I believe that is what you call it. The switch that is designed to cut off the compressor when passing a car to give you extra power.

My check oil light does not go off. There is plenty of oil in the oil pan and I have installed a manual oil pressure gauge that reads 55 PSI when running at highway speeds. There is a sensor on the side of the oil pan, is this a level switch?

Last problem. I replaced master cylinder, brake pads, disc, shoes, rotors and cylinders on the brake system. My ABS light stays on. Brakes work great but light stays on. What else can I look at?

Brent

Reply to
Sarge
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Wow... did all this start at once?

first thing you need to do is go over the wiring with a fine-tooth and check ALL wiring grounds including strap from engine to body.

Giveaways: rust, corrosion, heat signs at connection... this includes especially near the "computer"

Sarge opined in news: snipped-for-privacy@enews3.newsguy.com:

Theres no "switch" bad grounds can do this, fool the PCM (computer).. as will a bad TPS.. throttle position sensor

A sensor.. if like previous versions. Also possible bad ground or connection. Works by looking for a near short, before engine starts, so a bad wiring connection or ground could cause problem.

Lookj at a recently sealed parking lot right after a rain... brake hard. Feel pulsing in pedal? If ABS doesnt work and you feel tire skid, you're gonna have to get the system codes read.

If you only have one brake warning lite it could be something else.. handbrake, prop valve sense..

I think you should look on ebay for a good shop manual.

Reply to
Backyard Mechanic

Wow... did all this start at once?

No,

The fuel gauge and oil light started after the originally alternator started overcharging my battery. I assume the built in voltage regulator went out. Less then a year later the ABS problem started. This alternator went out and I replaced it with another one. Then about 6 months later the alt gauge and idiot light problem started. I pulled this alternator off and went back to the store with it where it tested good. The AC problem has been going on for about a year now.

I have a friend that is a salesman at a Ford dealership. I going to call him tonight to see if he can get me a photo copy of the wire diagram from the shop manual.

Sarge

Reply to
Sarge

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