850 TDI - idle revs

Hi. I have an 1996 855 TDI with 250000kms. Started a month ago - when idle, revs go up & down a bit (I'd say less than 50 revs). It happens only when the engine gains working temperature (after driving for about

25kms). And it doesn't happen every time (?). And few days ago, the lambda sond light went on for the first time (which on TDI indicates some problem with electronics, since TDI doesn't have lambdas), but it didn't happen again. Didn't notice any other problem - car goes well...

Please, tell me what can I expect it to be? And what price range? Unfortunately, I don't trust any of my 3 local Volvo specialists :-(

Any clues?

Thnx very much.

Reply to
Drnya
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I can't really help you except to say that if the Lambda light came on, then the computer should have a code stored. Get that code read and it'll point you in the right direction.

Reply to
Mike F

Maybe Audi specialist? :-)

Reply to
1F

You might have a leak either in the diesel filter connections/fuel hose or in the vacuum regulation system.

The lambda sond going on/off can be from a lot of things - I had the same problem with my 850 TDI but it disappeared when I cleaned the cable connectors to the airmass unit and to the EGR valve vacuum control unit.

Best regards Per

"Drnya" skrev i en meddelelse news:d0mqg1$tnr$ snipped-for-privacy@bagan.srce.hr...

Reply to
Per Groth Ludvigsen

I didn't know diesels had lambda. What does it do?

Mike

Reply to
Michael Pardee

No - no it doesn't... The warning light on 850 TDI has the same lambda symbol as a gasoline version, but it only warns about some (could be many things) electronic failure - problem... I said that already - just look at the beginning of the post... I learned that from my owners manual :-)

Cheers,

Reply to
Drnya

Well I don't trust any specialists in my city :-) Just being paranoid, and don't want to get ripped off :-)

Besides that, I am not sure if the Audi workshops can check "their own" engine in 850 TDI. Anyone knows that?

BTW, I am planning to make an OBD2 kit with some help from my friend... Then I should trust it :-)

Reply to
Drnya

I hope it is something like that :-) It is certainly on the cheap side :-) I'll doublecheck everything.

Thnk you very much - you've been pretty helful! Can you by any chance point me to some links on the web where I can find information (and possibly images) about those things? Where they are in the car and so on?

Hmmm - I'll try the next one :-)

What is the sparkplug lookalike thing situated on the far right (looking from front) side under the hood between the battery and the fusebox? It has 3 plastic (one yellow, two white) small diameter hoses coming out of it?

After one service, I had similar problems cause they didn't put one white hose back where it belongs to (air intake I think)... When I have put it back everything was OK after just a few minutes...

Sorry for the long post :-) and thnx for the tips!!!

- Drnya

Reply to
Drnya

Ouch - my mistake. I'll try to read better!

Mike

Reply to
Michael Pardee

On Volvos (and most Asian and European cars), only your country gets the "check engine" light. The rest of the world has adopted the lambda symbol. Some cars (primarily American nameplates) in Canada have "check engine" lights, Volvos did when the lights first came out.

Reply to
Mike F

Check lamp on/off for lambda sond: Look for cracked hoses and if hoses has becomed hard and untight. The thing you describe could be the EGR valve vaccuum regulator. Has the EGR valve ever been cleaned? The plug is placed under the unit.

I had the same problem once with the white hose missing in the air intake after service also the plug to the EGR regulator was not connected. If you find a leak remember to disconnect the negative battery pole for 30 min. to restore the ECU values - it might be running with some default values.

Best regards Per

"Drnya" skrev i en meddelelse news:d0pcsh$980$ snipped-for-privacy@bagan.srce.hr...

Reply to
Per Groth Ludvigsen

No. If you have time, could you please give me very short instructions on how to clean it? Is it safe to mess with it, or maybe very sensitive? Should I use air to clean it? Or some liquid?

Are there any links on the web? I found some on changing belts, struts etc. But nothing like this...

Didn't notice any leaks so far... I will inspect it more when the weather turns warm :-) It has been the coldest winter for 40 yrs here. Very cold mornings... Down to -25C...

BTW, what is the minimum temperature that you have started your 850 TDI? And how many kms did you do with your car... How many kms can I expect from that engine if I take care of it (of course)? I bought the car 2 yrs ago with 180000kms. Now I have 220000kms...

Thnx very much again and sorry for so many questions. I wouldn't mind very short answers :-)

It is easy to find info on 850 gasoline models, but not on TDI :-(

Reply to
Drnya

See my answers below...

"Drnya" skrev i en meddelelse news:d0rlli$83p$ snipped-for-privacy@bagan.srce.hr...

...You can search for illustrations on the internet - does not have to be volvo. Use eq. carburator fluid to clean it - should be pretty easy.

...Information on the 850 TDI is very limited I use Volvo Vadis software you can find it on ebay. I can also recommend the VOL-FCR software for testing, is cheap as well, you can buy an ODB2 cable to connect on ebay as well.

.....anyhow try to disconnect the battery to reset the ECU.

..... minus 25 degrees celcius but with winter diesel - suggest that you add

20% petrol to your diesel when tanking.

And how many kms did you do with your car... How many kms can I expect

.....Remember to change to timing belts - there are two - and the water pump at

220000 kms!!!! The water pump is important since it driven by the front timing belt, if the axle breaks the engine is gone because the pistons will hit the valves. ....Mine has 228000 kms - expect that the engine can do more than tkm 500 - when cold never go beyond 2000 rpms. I use 0-w40 oil, Castrol Racing.

.....If you still have problems and you have a Bosch Diesel Service where you live let them look at the problem. I use a Bosch Garage for diesel pump adjustments etc. Audi garage is ok too but they normally wont work with a volvo even though the mechanical engine is Audi 2.5 TDI AEL type because the ECU on the volvo is from Bosch where audi uses Digifant.

Reply to
Per Groth Ludvigsen

Thnx a lot Per!

/ I have cut out the repeating bits... /

After your EGR tips, I have found some great repair infos at:

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Will get some of that stuff for sure!

I've been using Castrol anti-gel (injector cleaning) diesel additive that holds down to -26C. Do you think it is better to add petrol instead?

Very odd - I searched the web and I cannot find any info on that Castrol additive I am using??? I've been using it for yrs in my old 240 D6 before... Never had any problems, though...

Changed all that even before 220tkm - just to be sure :-)

Yes - I am very causious with that! I extremely rarely touch 2500 rpms, before the engine warms up. I use Total 10-w40, and change it after

8000kms (and oil filter every time). The engine doesn't waste a drop of it :-)

Thnx again Per!

Reply to
Drnya

I only suggested petrol/diesel mix because it is cheaper than additives! I use additives from time to time as well when my engine start to smoke a litlle when driving to much in town traffic. This engine type needs to be driven hard - above rpms 3500 - once in a while to stay clean inside.

Regarding the oil Volvo generally changed the recommended viscosity from

10w-40 to 5w-40 in a service bulletin. Do not know Total make sure this oil conforms to the VW NORM 505 00 if not, do not use it. My engine is tight as well using 0w-40.

Best regards Per

"Drnya" skrev i en meddelelse news:d13t0a$rn8$ snipped-for-privacy@bagan.srce.hr...

Reply to
Per Groth Ludvigsen

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