88 240, location of AT OD solenoid

Yep that's the solenoid.

If you have voltage at that wire then the solenoid is getting power. If that's the case, remove it and try blowing through it before you replace it, a new one is expensive, I think I have a good used one somewhere you can have cheap though.

Raymond,

Before you remove the solenoid, inspect the wiring from the solenoid back toward the gear shifter housing. It runs over the top of the transmission, and often is bouncing around on top of the hot transmission. This heat, along with normal road debris splashing up, has likely worn insulation loose from the wires, causing a short to ground whenever the wire touches the transmission.

You'll probably want to use one of those small dentist mirrors on a wand, and a flash light to view the wire above the tranny.

This same problem happened to me a month ago. When I wrote to this group, I got a few responses to check the wire before replacing the solenoid. After repairing the wire, I covered it with a section of that accordian-type protector that you can get at pep boys and autozone.

There is a short wire coming from the gear shift housing mated via a plastic connector to a longer wire that goes over the gear shift housing to the solenoid. I'd like to separate the wires at the connector but I can't quite get hand or tool on the connector. After fussing a while it occurred to me that if I moved the wires and connector to the left side I might better be able to unlatch the connector. Indeed the connector is now closer to my reach but not quite enough to get a good hold. Any hints as to how I can separate the connector? If I start taking apart the shift lever switch will I be able to feed more of the wire through the floor so the connector will drop within my reach? Also, do I squeeze or pry apart the tabs on the connector?

In shifting the wires to the left it was very interesting to see that a much shorter and less obstructed routing that does not place the wire over the top of the hot transmission housing resulted. The only caveat is that the wire is in close quarters with the shift lever linkage on this side but it seems as if the wire could be secured to not touch or interfere with the linkage. Doesn't it make sense to leave the wire routed this way?

RC

transmission,

Raymond,

I had the same notion that the factory routing was longer, and your thought that it secured it away from the shift linkage seems likely.

When I re-assembled mine, I covered the wire and the connector with the protective accordian shield, so I can't see if there are any locking tabs or not. On my old solenoid, the opening of the connector has a small lip, about the right size to hold a spring clip that snaps over the lip during insertion of the connectors. I believe a firm grip on each side of the connector, and some counter-twisting to separate will let you pull the connectors apart. You might even use some pliers or grip-lock pliers, tight enough to hold but not tight enough to crush.

Were you able to inspect the wiring that is just laying loose on top of the transmission? You probably need a small mirror on an extender. When I looked at mine, there was a 3 inch section that had no insulation, and the live wire was completely exposed, touching the metal trans housing.

Pat

terminating

James, This reply also acknowledges Pat Quadlander's 2 messages in this thread that were very helpful. I unhinged the shift linkage and that gave me better access to the electrical connector which I was able to take apart. I found that with the ignition switch on and the OD light off there was 12 volts at the connector and when I pressed the OD switch such that the OD arrow was on, there was no voltage. I assume these are the right states although I wonder why it was not designed for the reverse states since that would have provided a friendlier failure mode, i.e. solenoid failure would only mean

4th gear could not be locked out. I then removed the solenoid and found that the rubber cap at one end was partly rotted away. I'm not sure that the wiring at that end is still sound so I think the next step is to replace the solenoid. I'm interested in your offer to sell me a cheap working one. I found that FCP Groton sells them for $95 so hopefully yours is a lot less :-). Please let me know ASAP so I can begin to get this car together. Reply to snipped-for-privacy@i3e.org except change "3e" to "eee".

One unrelated question -- I decoupled the shift linkage by popping off a snap ring that held a short shaft inside a hole on a metal plate. The hole diameter is much larger that the shaft diameter so I think there probably should be a bushing to take up the extra space. Anyone know what kind of bushing belongs there? I might be able to find one made of nylon or brass at my local hardware store.

RC

James, This reply also acknowledges Pat Quadlander's 2 messages in this thread that were very helpful. I unhinged the shift linkage and that gave me better access to the electrical connector which I was able to take apart. I found that with the ignition switch on and the OD light off there was 12 volts at the connector and when I pressed the OD switch such that the OD arrow was on, there was no voltage. I assume these are the right states although I wonder why it was not designed for the reverse states since that would have provided a friendlier failure mode, i.e. solenoid failure would only mean

4th gear could not be locked out. I then removed the solenoid and found that the rubber cap at one end was partly rotted away. I'm not sure that the wiring at that end is still sound so I think the next step is to replace the solenoid. I'm interested in your offer to sell me a cheap working one. I found that FCP Groton sells them for $95 so hopefully yours is a lot less :-). Please let me know ASAP so I can begin to get this car together. Reply to snipped-for-privacy@i3e.org except change "3e" to "eee".

One unrelated question -- I decoupled the shift linkage by popping off a snap ring that held a short shaft inside a hole on a metal plate. The hole diameter is much larger that the shaft diameter so I think there probably should be a bushing to take up the extra space. Anyone know what kind of bushing belongs there? I might be able to find one made of nylon or brass at my local hardware store.

RC

Almost every Volvo dealer has them. They are cheap. Replace both the front and rear ones.

Bob