I feel your pain, brother. Been there - done that on my former '95 Chevy
but fortunately for me didn't have all the issues you did removing the
pieces. One other thing that I did run into - I had to double-clamp the
hose when I got all the pieces into place, but thankfully it wasn't that
much of a problem. No leaks at all after that.
I don't know who approved those quick disconnects they used, but I don't
Cheers - Jonathan
Just finished replacing/repairing the leaking quick-connect (from thermostat
bell housing to heater hose/tube). As expected, the bast*rd snapped off
quite easily leaving about 1/2" sticking out of the bell housing. Tried a
vise grip on what remained and snapped that off, too, leaving about 1/8"
A shortened (as in snapped) hacksaw blade would not fit so I used a 1/2"
drill bit on a right-angle drill to slowly/carefully remove material from
the remaining broken quick connect. Used a small vise-grip to hold the
fine-tooth hacksaw blade which I used to cut the broken piece into four
sections (cut on the pull stroke). Used a medium-tooth jigsaw blade to
finish the cuts (cut on pull stroke). Used a propane torch to heat the
exterior of the bell housing. Used a screwdriver and a hammer to dislodge
the segments from the bell housing. I had gone too far on one cut and
scored the threads but not to worry. Used a battery terminal brush to clean
the threads. Used pipe joint compound w/Teflon (better than Teflon tape) on
the 5/8" I.D. barb-to-1/2" MIP brass adapter (Home Depot plumbing section,
SKU #48643-07450 / WATTS #A-493, $2.45). Used a 2" length of 5/8" heater
hose and hose clamps to connect the metal tube the barb.
Two and half hours of work and four cans of beer and the leak is now gone.
No sense in replacing the quick connect ($8-10) which would leak again
later. Also cheaper than replacing the thermostat manifold. Good luck to
anyone else patient enough to attempt same.