If you replaced the shoes, you probably need to tighten up the rear brakes.
They are bled just like any other system, and I bet they're bled OK, the
rears just might be too loose, which will set the brake light. So, give em'
a looksee and let us know.
I read that if I unhook the combination valve and the light goes out that
may be part of the problem so I went ahead and unplugged the one wire that
goes into it and the light went out I am still not sure what the problem is.
I have already tried what you said with backing up and jamming on the brakes
to set them is there a better way to do this I am not sure that it worked.
Just went back out and checked and even the parking brake is not working so
the pads must not be out far enough to be hitting the drums. anyway to
adjust them out with out having to remove the wheels and turning the
adjusting screw out? I tried driving in reverse and hitting the brakes hard
but it didn't seem to work maybe I need to do it somemore??
In light of what you just said I'd strongly recommend removing the drums
and having a good look. It could save you some $$. The brakes must be
manually adjusted before reinstalling the wheels. If they're so "loose"
the parking brake isn't working there's a good chance something broken,
seized or installed incorrectly.
There is a brake adjuster that you need to tighten up. There is no access
window so you need to pull the drum. It should be a snug fit to get the drum
back on. I have to do this every few thousand miles, so it's one of the
reasons I hate drums.
KJ, Pull your drums and hit them with a wire brush for a bit to clean them
up a little.
I'll bet there is a little oval shaped indentation on the drum.
Knock that out with a cold chisel and hammer and you can adjust your rears
without removing the drum each time.
I did this on my 87 K5 and the wife's 97 Yukon.
Trust me, my drums are clean. You could eat off the backing plate and
the internals have a purdier coat of paint then I bet your 87 K5 has on the
body. It's simple: Drum brakes suck.
I looked high and low and Doc and myself are under the agreement that
there is no access window on a 10 bolt in that range. Do you have a 12,14,
or Dana XX?
Okay, I read what I want. However: I have pulled my drums and spent about 1
hour each cleaning them (so I could paint them yellow) and didn't notice it.
I guess now is as good a time as any to see if I can't notice that oval.
(Need to tighten rear brakes) Needless to say, still have to remove the
wheel to adjust!
Well I just tightened the rears on my 1990 GMC Jimmy. No ovals present. I
can't remember if they are there on my 1985 K5, but I also don't want to
play with that today.... Either there after-market drums, I'm too blind, or
it's a Chevy thing not a GMC thing. Whatever it is, my now 5K or say old
pads are finally starting to look like "old" pads (even surface) and
hopefully it will be a long time before I have to pull the drums again
*caugh*. Up until now, there had been patches that were smooth and patches
that were still rough like when new.
Well, for all you Chevy truck guys, rear drum brakes are making
a re-appearance on the 2005 trucks. It looks like you can get either
drums or discs on the back now. They use the newer design drum
brakes that should last longer then the older style. And this style
appears to stay adjusted better. This same style of brake drum has
already been in use for years on the Venture style vans.
I'd say that folks who want a work truck will be better off getting
the drum brakes on the rear. Less likely to screw up the way
the rear disc brakes do.
About time. The only advantages to discs is that some are lighter than
drums, they don't fade as much since they shed heat better and for the
most part they adjust easier.
Other than that drums win in stopping power and durability hands down.
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