Depends on what you mean by "valve."
If it's the valve core, yes, there are tools that allow it to be
replaced without discharging the system.
if it's the whole valve fitting, the system has to be discharged,
a special socket is needed to fit the fitting, then evacuate and
recharge according to service procedures.
Yeah, I meant the core. The cap has an oily film on it, and I can see
a bubble come out of the valve once in while, particularly after
removing the guage it'll bubble slowly for a while. The original
symptom was no cold air. The clutch is cycling on and off every 5
seconds or so, which indicates low coolant pressure. So I thought I'd
take a shot at replacing the valve core before throwing another can of
R134 into it. Is acsource.com the place to get the stuff, or are there
other places? Thanks again!
Yes, AC Source is one source for the tool, as is Johnstone,
Snap-On, Mac, Matco etc. but I gotta ask you; why would you
spend $60 or $175 for a tool to perform a job just to save what
amounts to two dollars worth of R-134? If the clutch is cycling
every 5 seconds, there isn't much refrigerant left anyway and
assuring a proper repair and proper fill includes proper
evacuation and a measured recharge.
I don't know if this helps or not but I replaced my low pressure valve on my
95 Jimmy and it was a piece of cake. I don't recall loosing much
refridgerant if any at all. I believe I did top it up with 134-a afterwards
though. Seeing as the valve is under $30 as I recall, I wouldn't bother
simply replacing the valve core in case the valve body is in poor condition
also. I'm sure that I'm going to be in for some 'feedback' from our AC
techs here but this was my experience 2 years ago and the Jimmy has been ice
cold ever since... It seems to me that perhaps this valve threaded into
another valve or something because as I said, loss of gas wasn't an issue
for me. I hope you get it sorted out. Watch the torque on this valve
though - it's easy to wind it up way too tight.
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