It's hard to find anyone that really knows how to weld
cast iron. Brazing would fail after a while because of the constant
expansion/contraction the metals go through. The only way
to weld it proper, is to strip it down to the block and pre-heat
the block to a red hot condition. Then it's ready to weld, but
with an engine block the odds are that it will warp to the point
of making the engine junk. Your better off finding another engine.
Discovered a crack in my engine block yesterday, because I lost cooling
fluid fast. Inspected the engine and found a crack previously welded just
over the frost plug on the driver side of the engine. This is a -88
Suburban. Any way to fix this ? Do I have to remove the engine from the car?
I don't believe they pre-heat cast iron to "red hot". Probably only 3-600
degrees. If welded properly, it won't warp at all, but as you mentioned-Cast
iron welding is a lost art and it's hard to find anyone who knows how to do
Go find somebody that can weld cast iron. It just does not make sense to
put a new short block into a 15 yr truck unless it won't run. A top notch
fabrication shop can do the repair for you. Look in the phone book and call
around. It can be "patched" to make it last longer for you. It won't be a
permanent fix but nothing is permanent in a 15 yr old car... :-)
I see no reason not to drop in a new engine.... some people (namely me)
can't afford to buy something else, so instead they must fix it what they're
running. I've put about 2k in repairs into my '88 K2500 in the last couple
of years (which is about 4-5 months of new truck payment) and I expect my
truck to go another 10 years. trying to weld an engine block will just
haunt you. I'd only do it on something you can't readily find a replacement
for, like my dad's 1943 Farmall tractor.
Ouch! Did you get the engine from a junk yard or was it supposed to be
rebuilt. This may be a warranty issue or at least a misrepresentation
issue... You can get a remanufactured engine for much less then $4k and
find a small shop somewhere to change it. I still think you can get it
rewelded. You can weld cast iron and have it hold up. I rebuilt the 6.2L
in our van it was not complicated to pull and reinstall it. So as long as
you mark everything before you disconnect it and get some help you can do it
Well, I will continue trying different options to fix the leak as long as it
does not cost me a fortune...
I have tried with a few boxes of some stuff in the cooling water who is
supposed to fix leaks, but it has not stopped the leak yet...
I''ll try some "chemical metal" too, to see if this helps. Last I'll try a
local guy who has experience with welding. If all fails, I'll sell the car
Some parts may still be of use, even if the body has some rust......
It's just that I'm not living in the U.S................
I spent 4000 USD to get this engine in the car. That's what a used 6.2D
costs over here, including the work.(which is one third of the price).
I can get a "cheap" 6.5, it will cost 4000 USD just for the engine......
The guy who got me the engine swindled me, because I can't imagine that a
mechanic did not see that the block was cracked in the first place...
Roar from Norway
What tells you he isn't the one who tried to weld the crack? Just get it
repaired by a good shop, with a certified welder and go on with your life.
See if we (the US) has a military base with in a reasonable distance. You
maybe able to pick up a light duty US military truck cheap. We have used
6.2's in them from about the mid 80's to about 2 years ago... Might be a
cheaper avenue for parts.
Doc's right about the stop-leak. Currently rebuilding an engine that
had water-passages blocked by that stuff - don't do it.
Regarding the welding... it can be done but isn't easy - and depends on
where the crack is. Some cracks can be welded some can't. The main
thing about the welding is to control the block-tempeture during and
after the weld. For example, if you had a small shack with a wood-stove
you could get the fire going, heat the block on the stove, stuff-full
the stove with wood, and hang a cover over the door (so you can leave
later w/o letting in a draft), do the welding, and put the block back on
the stove, leave and lock the doors overnight. By morning if no drafts
hit the block it will be fine. If you are nearby and a draft hits the
hot-block you will hear a ping when it re-cracks - start over it can
still be done. Another thing about the block is that it is cast-iron
meaning that it's steal with more impurities. Depending on the angle
(level, upsidedown, sideways) it may be difficult to control the shape.
Thus I prefer level, and can do multiple passes welding - then grind off
any extra metal later.
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