I put my '68 Camaro up on a lift today, had a close look at the
underside of the engine (it's a 383 stroker with low miles on it),
turns out the block has a hairline crack on each side of the block below the
heads, you can see
a small amount of coolant on the block itself.
Anyone have any suggestions? I'm not an engine expert, so I'm not sure--
is the engine salvagable? If not, I'm in a bind, since it's the middle of
I'd like to drive this car until late fall.
find yourself a new block in a hurry -
i am sure there are *miracle* fixes out there that claim to repair just
about anything, but i would never chance nearly new internals on a *remedy*
when getting a block is not all that hard to do
just my opinion
Damn, that's what I was afraid of. I did already contact the seller of this
but I don't know what he'll do. If he's reputable, he'll stand behind it,
but I'm not so sure,
looks like I might have gotten screwed.
I might end up pulling this engine and looking for a good chevy smallblock
Since it's the middle of summer, I'd really like to be able to cruise for a
A couple of inches below the head:
Is a cinch!
Maybe no need to even remove the motor from the car, just make sure no water
gets into the oil. Because it sounds like it froze, and if it froze and
expanded on the outside, it did the same on the inside. But the inside is
Just look for a reputable MIG welder, if he's good enough, no need to even
use nickel wire, just AWS70 wire and 75% Argon and 25% CO2 mix will do fine.
JB Weld for now (hokey repair) and then see what your options are during the
winter months. LOL :)
Joe--ASE Certified Parts Specialist & 10th Ann.Club Tech Director
'80 Carousel Red Turbo T/A, 26k orig.
'79 "Y89" 400/4 speed 10th Ann. T/A, 57k orig
'84 Olds 88 Royale Bgm 2 dr, 307 "Rocket" (lol), 141k and still going....
'80 T/A project car...
How low below the deck surface are the cracks:
Was the block decked, and if so. how many thousandths?
There is a chance, if it is well enough below the deck/head mating area, you
can mig weld it with a 200 to 250 amp mig welder. But, the downside is, if
it cracked there. It most likely cracked on the inside.
A good test procedure would be as follows:
1: drain all the water/antifreeze, if there was any to begin with?
2: Clean the area with acetone, sand with 80 grit sandpaper.
3: Clean well with acetone again.
4: Put J-B Weld over the cracks,
5: Put water in the engine.
6: Use a pressure tester. See if any water leaks into the oil.
If not, you may be able to drive it with the J-B Weld for the rest of the
summer, Then get a new block for the winter and re-do it.
I hope this helps?
Read previous reply:
The only way to know if it's cracked on the inside, is if water is getting
in the oil.
Major mass engine remanufactures weld pieces into blocks, that rods went
through all of the time, instead of using a block that needs sleeving.
I hope this helps?
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