I put my '68 Camaro up on a lift today, had a close look at the underside of the engine (it's a 383 stroker with low miles on it), turns out the block has a hairline crack on each side of the block below the heads, you can see a small amount of coolant on the block itself. Anyone have any suggestions? I'm not an engine expert, so I'm not sure-- is the engine salvagable? If not, I'm in a bind, since it's the middle of summer, I'd like to drive this car until late fall.
Thanks
find yourself a new block in a hurry -
i am sure there are *miracle* fixes out there that claim to repair just about anything, but i would never chance nearly new internals on a *remedy* when getting a block is not all that hard to do
just my opinion
NortH
JB Weld for now (hokey repair) and then see what your options are during the winter months. LOL :)
Joe--ASE Certified Parts Specialist & 10th Ann.Club Tech Director '80 Carousel Red Turbo T/A, 26k orig. '79 "Y89" 400/4 speed 10th Ann. T/A, 57k orig '84 Olds 88 Royale Bgm 2 dr, 307 "Rocket" (lol), 141k and still going.... '80 T/A project car...
Call your engine builder and ask about the warrantee. Then follow Joe's advise. If it'sjust the water jackets, you probably can have the block repaired. Charles
Damn, that's what I was afraid of. I did already contact the seller of this engine, but I don't know what he'll do. If he's reputable, he'll stand behind it, but I'm not so sure, looks like I might have gotten screwed.
I might end up pulling this engine and looking for a good chevy smallblock to install. Since it's the middle of summer, I'd really like to be able to cruise for a few months!
How low below the deck surface are the cracks:
Was the block decked, and if so. how many thousandths?
There is a chance, if it is well enough below the deck/head mating area, you can mig weld it with a 200 to 250 amp mig welder. But, the downside is, if it cracked there. It most likely cracked on the inside.
A good test procedure would be as follows:
1: drain all the water/antifreeze, if there was any to begin with?2: Clean the area with acetone, sand with 80 grit sandpaper.
3: Clean well with acetone again.4: Put J-B Weld over the cracks,
5: Put water in the engine.6: Use a pressure tester. See if any water leaks into the oil.
If not, you may be able to drive it with the J-B Weld for the rest of the summer, Then get a new block for the winter and re-do it.
I hope this helps?
Refinish King
I'll look into the welding idea-- thanks.
Welding a block is not a miracle. It does take skill, and the proper types of welders to repair cast iron blocks. Cracked water jackets are a repairible area. Charles
PS crack on each side is a couple inches below the heads. What really scares me is that each crack looks to be 1 1/2 or 2 inches long-- could be cracked on the inside too--
Crack on each side is a couple inches below the heads-- I don't know, is this a repairable area?
thanks
A couple of inches below the head:
Is a cinch!
Maybe no need to even remove the motor from the car, just make sure no water gets into the oil. Because it sounds like it froze, and if it froze and expanded on the outside, it did the same on the inside. But the inside is more forgiving.
Refinish King
PS Just look for a reputable MIG welder, if he's good enough, no need to even use nickel wire, just AWS70 wire and 75% Argon and 25% CO2 mix will do fine.
Read previous reply:
The only way to know if it's cracked on the inside, is if water is getting in the oil.
Major mass engine remanufactures weld pieces into blocks, that rods went through all of the time, instead of using a block that needs sleeving.
I hope this helps?
Refinish King
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"Refinish King"
some bars leak(sp) in the coolant would help too.
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