If your readings are accurate, even though they are still within
the tolerance, I wouldn't want my truck running with those
kind of camber readings. You can't really blame the alignment
place, as they will say, and rightfully so, "it's within spec". Now
that you have some knowledge, you can get them or another
alignment shop to "put it to the preferred" specs.
And the knockouts aren't as big a pain as everyone makes
them out to be. You will get charged extra though.
Yeah I guess that's what my point is. You and Refinish King both state what
I don't like about it, I'm at the end of the tolerance allowed by the
alignment specification. And as the ball joints wear over the next 50,000 or
so miles it takes me to wear these tires out the camber will worsen as well,
accelerating the tire wear even more.
I did call them today and I'm taking the truck into them in the morning, I
told them I wanted to be there when they align it. They said OK as I'm
probably going to be the only customer there anyway. I'm in Cincinnati and
we just got pelted with a snow storm and should have about 16" by tomorrow
I'm willing to pay extra to have the knock outs removed and the camber set
where it really should be. But I would have liked to have the option in the
Thanks for all the advise from those who answered.
Funny but Ford trucks always seemed to chew tires at a much faster rate then
And it seemed to be the outside tread area that wore the most on trucks that
a lot of weight, or that towed a lot. As they get older, it seemed the
inside wore more
on trucks that were light loaded or used as cars. Could that be because
when they were
loaded the front end picked up, and camber changed positive loading the
and in the older rigs, spring sag caused the front end to ride lower, again
this time negative wearing the insides? Both cases also cause toe changes.
Also interesting that ford finally gave up on twin I-beam.
The shops get paid for a: "Wheel Alignment"
Punching or grinding out the adjustment locks or knockouts is extra labor!
So they do a: "Toe and go" get paid for an alignment, and the alignment was
within tolerance. No harm done as far as they are concerned.
The trick to establishing a good alignment reputation is:
1- Always explain to the customer before hand the procedure of adjustment,
especially on a non adjustable vehicle. (Give them the option to forgo the
extra and document it!)
2- Explain sometimes the factory does not install adjustable bolts and
eccentrics in, and there is an extra charge for the kits. (Give the customer
the option of installing the kit, or do a slip and slide adjustment!)
3- After adding any adjustment kits, and finding there isn't a way to get
the alignment into the desired range, diagnose the problem and call the
customer. Never let it go as good enough!
That was due to the:
Front end geometry, the I-Beams were mounted almost at the center of the
front end, albeit asymmetrically. That was why one side tire wore more than
the other, and there was such a drastic feathering difference side to side.
From toe out on turns when cornering.
Not to mention they cornor a whole lot better, ride better too.
As for big trucks, yeah no doubt striaght axles can haul more weight.
But in a light duty truck, and by that I mean any truck with less than
15,000 lbs gvw,
IFS using uneven control arms is fine. It would be nice to see real
opposed to the rubber ones they use now on the A-arms.