It shouldn't hurt unless you get it too hot and melt the seals in the
pistons. I heated, sprayed, everything I could think of on my 88 s10 and
the nut came loose from the piston fine but it wouldn't come free from the
line so it twisted the line. It was easy enough to do the same at the T on
top of the differential and spend a 1$ to replace the short line in
between. I figured as rusty as they were, I replaced the T and both sides
just to be safe.
It would have to be very "little" amount of heat.
If you find that the nut comes loose from the wheel
cylinder, but is rusted to the line.......don't keep turning
the nut...just remove the bolts that hold the wheel
cylinder in place, pull it out of the backing plate a
bit (this will stretch the brake a bit, but it is flexible)
and then unscrew the wheel cylinder from the nut.
This method will save you having to make up a new
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