I guess I didn't explain a few things on the web page that I'll explain here
and up date the page asap.
First of all the truck was going in 'reverse' when this happened at a very
slow speed. The damage to the control arm (lower A-frame) was done from the
ripping of the ball joint out of its socket (so to speak) the A-frame dug
into the pavement but was not dragged down the road. The truck came to an
immediate stop after the break.
Also just a year ago the front end was aliened. If the ball joints where
that bad the alignment would not have been made or stayed in alignment for
that long. Also there was NO warning of this about to happen. No noise, no
pulling to one side or the other NOTHING!!
The break took place across the holes for the bolts and or rivets on the
Yes there is rust, however this vehicle has no more rust that I can see than
any other S-10 I've looked at in the last three weeks....and I've looked at
many of them to check this out.
The ball joints where replaced by the owner before me. I got the truck in
1998. Like I said a year ago it was out of alignment and needed an idler arm
before the alignment could be done to it. The ball joints where tested (how
I don't know) but all seemed ok, they changed the idler arm and did the
alignment. All was ok. And the truck has been in alignment for a year now.
As far as the cutting torch, I will know that you can remove a rivet without
leaving any cutting marks on the steel. I have worked as a pipe welder for
fifteen years at a ship yard. However it does take a good torch-man to
accomplish this. I was saying that there are no signs of one being used. No
discoloring of the steel or any cut marks or any sign of a torch being used.
I was saying that "if" one was used it could explain the metal fatigue. I
understand that the proper way to remove them is with an air chisel. However
they where removed the break took place across the holes where the bolts go.
There is VERY little steel at that part of the A-frame. This has to be a
weak point...look at one and see. Remove the ball joint and you will see
that the A-frame has about 3/4 of an inch of steel then a hole for a bolt,
then about another 1/2 inch of steel, then a large hole for the ball joint
to go though, then another 1/2 inch of steel, and the other hole for the
next bolt, then another 3/4 inch of steel. Not much support. And this is
where the break took place at. Looks to be a piss poor design if you ask
me! That's one hell of allot of weight to hold up. Also silver metal was
showing at the break where it sheared off! The rust is surface rust and it
does not go deep into the metal.
I also will add that this truck has NEVER been mistreated. It is a four
wheel drive truck. But has hardly ever been off road. And when it was it was
only on hard ground on farm land...not going though mud, rocks or any kind
of abuse. I've taken very good care of this truck.
I'm I looking for a lawsuit...NO! But if this has happened before (God knows
it could have or has)... it surely can happen again to someone.
I have shown this to five mechanics and all are in disbelief that this
happened. But all agree there is not much steel on the A-frame at this point
where the break took place and that rust does not seem to be the cause of
All I'm trying to do is bring this to any S-10 owner attention. If you have
one of these trucks you better have it checked out! And even then you won't
know for sure if this can happen to you!!!
Thank you, the "moron" that drives the speed limit in a truck that she
believes is safe.