Acura Integra 91 manual difficulty changing gears

I was hoping you would see my message.

I can see that I wasn't clear and you conclude that the problem was on the clutch mechanism. The difficulty is to move the gear stick from gear to gear, as if there is a cable with dry lubrication. The problem exists with or without the engine running.Consequently it eliminates the clutch. The car only has 80,000 miles If there is a cable .His it accessible from the inside of the car, by removing the center console? Thanks John

Canfree wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com:

There is a cable. It does not require lubrication, but can occasionally wear into its sheath and bind. Is pedal effort smooth and even all along its travel? If so, the cable itself is fine.

If you're having difficulty changing gear, that strongly suggests that your clutch is not disengaging. This can be due to either the friction disc sticking on its splines, or a misadjusted cable.

Is gear changing easier with the engine OFF?

How many miles on the car?

Is the clutch properly adjusted? (3/4" to 1" freeplay at the pedal)

Thanks The car needs a new exaust so, I am going to spray the area you have sugest, with lubricant when the car is on the lift.

Thanks again

John

Canfree wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com:

Ah, in that case... You're probably not far off, but...

Your gearshift linkage consists of a couple of rigid steel rods. There is no cable.

Sounds like the car hasn't been driven much and the linkage is a bit corroded.

You can do two things:

1) Take the car for a long drive, maybe an hour or more in city traffic, so the lever gets lots of use, or 2) Just keep driving it as you were and wait for it to loosen up.

You could also put it on stands, get underneath, and spray copious amounts of silicone lubricant around the shift lever area above the exhaust, and where the rods go into the transmission.

TeGGeR I have followed your advise and I noticed a good improvement. The mechanic told me to go back and repeat the operation until everything goes back to normal. Of the topic. I replaced my catalytic converter and the same mechanic suggested that I keep the car for a few years because it is an excellent car. I believe that you also have one, 91GS Thanks again

John

The shift linkage under the car is binding. You can also loosen the bolt that gpes thru the bushings at the shifter base and lube there to correct it. Very important not to tighten the bolt too tight or you will still have the same prob.

David Short Acura God

That brings back my previous question. Can I get assess to the refereed components from the top ( by removing the center console) or do I have to do it from under the car? If it must be done from under the car, the shield located above the exhaust, have to be also removed. Thanks a million. John

Canfree wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com:

Under the car is very much the best. If you want to attempt disassembling things from up top, you're going to have quite a job pulling things apart.

With a spray the shield doesn't need to come off.

I still think your best bet is simple use. Just go drive the car around for an hour or so in heavy city traffic until it loosens up.

The thing that's most probably most sticking is (as David said) the pin with the rubber grommets on either side:

's here: Those pics are raw photos from the "shifter bushing" page I haven't got around to writing yet.

Time dulls the memory of painful events, but I recently had a tussle with the bushings. They are in an inconvenient place, and actually removing the bushings sets you up for a reassembly that requires patience. Give the bushings a spray with silicone lubricant (definitely not WD-40) and see how it works out. Loosening the nut on the bolt is not a big hassle if you need to do that, and it isn't nearly as hard to put the rubber exhaust hangers back on as I thought. A squirt of silicone does the trick on that as long as the lower end is put on first.

Mike

"Michael Pardee" wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@sedona.net:

I did not drop the exhaust. Unbolting the shield and moving it out of the way was enough.

Removal of the sleeve was the hardest part, and it took me a bit to discover that all I needed was a small C-clamp, a deep socket, and the new sleeve. By arranging all this so that when the C-clamp was tightened, the new sleeve pushed the old into the deep socket at the other end. Since the new sleeve did not have its O-rings on yet, it did not stick in place and was easily removed after.

The hardest part was picking the plastic cups out, and even that wasn't difficult.

Thanks to you guys I have now a very good idea on the size of the task. I am going to start by spraying with the silicone lubricant and observe the results. Thanks a million guys.

John