Yes you can, there are two ways: one is to buy this device:
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(you will get 14.09V instead of 13.80V, energy comes from Kinetic Energy, not from fossil fuel)
Two is to send your alternator to me and I will fix it for you for $100, you pay shipping on both directions. Recommend not to exceed 14.28V to avoid destroying sensitive electronics in your vehicle. snipped-for-privacy@extra150miles.com, this method still consume fossil fuel.
What complete rubbish. Where does the Kinetic Energy come from, if not fossil fuel? Or is this for Fred Flintstone's car? And I'd submit that whether you get 14.09 or 13.8 volts out of your alternator matters not a wit.
The advert is a hoot..."your car also must be frictionless"..."you may have to hire a good mechanic to get rid of frictions in brakes" Ah yes, that darned friction, always slowin' me down!
What complete rubbish. Where does the Kinetic Energy come from, if not fossil fuel? Or is this for Fred Flintstone's car? And I'd submit that whether you get 14.09 or 13.8 volts out of your alternator matters not a wit.
First your untested logic is only valid for those who make HHO (H2O) generator. Go tell them that there is no free energy in a vehicle, people still buy their product, that amazes me.
Second, your Kinetic energy is not there, it is minimized by your poorly designed car, it is eaten up by your frictions. Do you want Proof? Your
10sc car cannot accelerate in 3 sc can it? Mine can.
Why you sounded like a self-schooling person, the world is black and white!! Why don't you send your complaint to BOSCH and ask them why they set their voltage to 13.65 - 13.80V?
I bet BOSCH is smarter than any one of you posters, BOSCH is older than all your parents combined.
BTW -
BOSCH alternator maximum voltage is 14V, go read their label first and THINK before posting,
Go ahead put adjustable voltage regulators(like LM317K etc..) on your alternator and come back to tell me your experience, OK?
First your untested logic is only valid for those who make HHO (H2O) generator. Go tell them that there is no free energy in a vehicle, people still buy their product, that amazes me.
Second, your Kinetic energy is not there, it is minimized by your poorly designed car, it is eaten up by your frictions. Do you want Proof? Your
10sc car cannot accelerate in 3 sc can it? Mine can.
you sounded like a self-schooling person, is the world black and white??
Why don't you send your complaint to BOSCH and ask them why they set their voltage to 13.65 - 13.80V?
I bet BOSCH is smarter than any one of you posters, BOSCH is older than all your parents combined.
BTW -
BOSCH alternator maximum voltage is 14V, go read their label first and THINK before posting,
Go ahead put an adjustable voltage regulators(like LM317K etc..) on your alternator and come back to tell me your experience, OK?
Let me see if I've got this right. James is on this board constantly helping folks out. His information is accurate, and to the point. You are trying to sell something, and criticizing him for not providing a complete link to an alternative product to yours? You are insulting to other posters, arrogant and rude.
" to be a perfectly valid link, if you knew how to use it. They're a specialty auto parts seller, focusing on Volvo and Subaru cars. They don't sell generic electronic components, just good qualtiy car parts and supplies.
I gave the link to the company, it's not too hard to find the regulator, they only sell a few. Also no, I don't assume. iPD is a Volvo aftermarket and performance supplier, Volvo uses Bosch internally regulated alternators in most of their cars made in the last 30 years or so, and from what I've seen, the regulator is the same in the very similar alternators in most Saab, BMW, and other Euro cars of the era. They differ mostly in the mounting and pulley design. The regulator I mentioned seeing is specifically for Bosch alternators, though it would be easy to make the external version work with nearly any alternator so long as you can isolate the field winding from whatever the original regulator was.
LM317? That's an adjustable series pass regulator, it is *not* the same as an adjustable regulator for an alternator which regulates the field current depending on the output voltage.
So, now a moving car has no kinetic energy. A new world of physics. Of course, the rest of us know it does and that kinetic energy in 99%+ of all cars comes from fossil fuels.
It's quite laughable actually. We're supposed to believe that a guy who can't even write a post that makes sense has figured out how to remove friction from a car so that it has enough power to triple the
0-60 time.
Last time, wasn't it the water pump bearing that was supposed to be consuming 20hp?
I have no complaint with Bosch or about my voltage regulator.. Nor apparently does anyone else here but you.
You're the one that wants to screw around with voltage regulators. Mine are working fine.
For over a year now, over 500 people bought FAKE capacitors without knowing the truth, and you folks tried to tell me and BOSCH that voltage level is not important and it's can be easily adjusted with any adjustable regulator, if it's that easy BOSCH probably won't buy a GB(Great Britain) regulator. You called my post a garbage, isn't that an insult to the truth? to BOSCH too?
You don't know that I don't care if you buy my product/service or not, because I am selling them faster than we can make them. I was only trying to help you, two days ago, I heard on the radio, the Oil predictor said next round you will end up paying $10.50/gallon. I hope that won't come true any time soon. But when it comes, I will refuse to help you, I do not care for your devalued $$$$.
I think he is trying to imply that 13.8v will not charge your batteries properly, which might be slightly true, but my 940 produces over 14.1v. Also the original web site is gone now but I guess it was saying you should get more MPG with more voltage.
I don't quite understand what the 'adjustable' ones are doing, The IPD description don't make any sense. How can you prevent light dimming when the voltage is dropping after the alternator/regulator, by increaseing the regulation voltage?? You would want to decrease it, you cannot regulate 'up' (without using DC-DC converter which is alot more money at 10A). Perhaps they are just lower drop out regulators or able to eek out a bit more current from the alternator but obviously this guy is pretending to answer some query in order to sell stuff.
I do remember my friend as a short cut wired his stereo into the ignition on/off line to power the 4x50w. His dash lights dimmed along with the music. When I wired mine up I used a direct 12V supply to the battery and an ignition on/off line, and got a noticable quality improvement.
Strangely though the OP has answered some of the criticisms, but his arguments make no sense atall, while he seems to be involved in the automotive snake oil industry such a HHO. I guess English is not his first language.
I am currently waiting the results of a HHO generator test in 'Car Mechanics' magazine, the makers are claiming 5+mpg improvements by mixing in locally generated HHO (electrolising water using the alternator) in real time. But it all looks a bit too Heath Robinson and actually dangerous to me, they talked about frozen relays lead to explosions. I can't see how a 5+ improvement in MPG for free has been missed to this point, but you do hear alot about how the car industry like to supress this stuff. It is however more believable than 'free' power from kenetic energy.
The regulator in an automotive alternator does not regulate the output voltage directly as a linear series pass regulator such as the ubiquitous 3 terminal regulators used in many small electronic devices does.
What it does do is control the field excitation current in response to the output voltage of the alternator. As load increases and the voltage starts to drop, the excitation current increases which increases the output to compensate, the other effect being it increases the mechanical load on the engine. The primary advantage of an alternator over an old fashioned generator is that the brushes that transfer power to the rotating assembly need only handle the current to the field coil in the rotor rather than the entire output as is the case with a generator.
A standard automotive alternator can produce well over 100V if you drive the excitation balls to the wall directly off the 12V battery with no regulator. Indeed, it's a common trick used to run line voltage incandescent lights and power tools driven by universal motors in emergencies. Obviously one must first disconnect the output from the 12V electrical system before doing this, and it likely does no favors for the alternator but it does work.
In a nutshell, these adjustable regulators allow one to set the reference voltage in the regulator against which the output is compared to control the field current, which allows you to adjust the output. As for reasons to do this, in many cars, the electrical system is not really adequate. Older designs that got more and more accessories added as they matured have more and more load on the system, and when you add to that aftermarket devices you load things even further. Voltage drop in the wiring and connectors that would be insignificant in a 120V or
240V household circuit become very significant when you only have ~12V to work with, so sometimes boosting the stock alternator voltage up a hair works nicely to compensate for losses elsewhere. Really it would be better to rewire the entire car with heavier gauge wire and better connectors throughout, but in most cases that's not really practical.
Thanks thats a helpful explanation. Still find it hard to understand how if the problem is really deficient wiring, that bringing the voltage up will reduce dimming when varying loads are applied, although I guess it increases the low level. But I do see how that can help with charging a battery in a caravan.
Really what you want is to isolate the battery/alternator/starter system and regulate outside of it, preferably using a high efficiency switch mode regulator. Then you might have some sort of useful KERS system with bigger voltages / faster chargng. Although everything inside the battery system would need redesigned for the higher voltages (Starter solenoid, alternator, more batteries).
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