engine noise

This is not because they are solid lifters, but because they are self-adjusting hydraulic lifters. When the engine has been stopped for a while, the oil drains out of the lifters. On restarting, it takes a second for the oil pressure to build up and re-fill the lifters.

Nedavno Peter Bell pise:

| This is not because they are solid lifters, but because they are | self-adjusting hydraulic lifters. When the engine has been stopped | for a while, the oil drains out of the lifters. On restarting, it | takes a second for the oil pressure to build up and re-fill the | lifters.

I have '89 Audi 100, and one of hydraulic lifters makes a noise when I start warm engine (for example after engine was stopped for few hours). Can that do any damage to engine? Do I need to replace lifters immediately?

It's not too serious. Kind of depends on the car's value/condition. If it's a runabout and you're not too bothered it will probably be ok- I ran my Golf for a while with noisy lifters. If it's due a cambelt change soon do it then, as it's not much extra work, or at least it wasn't on the Golf, so if your 100 is a 4 cyl engine it shouldn't be.

Nedavno Chris Bartram pise:

| > I have '89 Audi 100, and one of hydraulic lifters makes a noise when | > I start warm engine (for example after engine was stopped for few | > hours). Can that do any damage to engine? Do I need to replace | > lifters immediately? | > | It's not too serious. Kind of depends on the car's value/condition. If | it's a runabout and you're not too bothered it will probably be ok- I | ran my Golf for a while with noisy lifters. If it's due a cambelt | change soon do it then, as it's not much extra work, or at least it | wasn't on the Golf, so if your 100 is a 4 cyl engine it shouldn't be.

It's 5 cyl 2.3 NF engine. It does not bother me, I am just wondering if that will not produce further damage.

I also have another (related?) problem. Recently when I start the cold engine it immediately stalls (if I do not pres accelerator pedal hard). It has trouble stabilizing - idle is ~750 rpm, and sometimes it goes down to 700, then it goes up to ~900 and then back to ~750. It idles then on ~750 and goes up and down 10 rpm (approximately). It is slow in stabilizing with big oscillations in rpm. (I hope I explained that so you can understand, English is not my native language).

I cleaned ISV with carburetor cleaner, and now I am thinking what to do next. I am going to change spark-plugs. Perhaps O2 sensor?

Yvan, You used _THROTTLE BODY CLEANER_....right? Carburetor Cleaner is too aggressive for the ISV and will dissolve the internal rubber seals - making the ISV useless. If it has only 2 contacts at the plug, take it off the car and try to blow through it, if you can, then it's time to replace it. The oxygen sensor may need replacing if it is the original to the car - they are cheap if you get one for a common 3-wired sensor (here in Canada, a Ford will do) and you can splice the wiring harness yourself. Cheers! Steve Sears

Check to see that the closed throttle switch on the throttle body is making contact which activates the ISV. Use an ohm meter on the electrical contacts on the plug on the top - back of the TB.

The 'lifter' noise that you hear on start-up is probably caused by loose or broken exhaust manifold bolts on cylinder 3 - 5 and not lifters. Common on the five cylinder engines. When the manifold heats up it expands and closes the leak so it is quiet. Nothing to worry about.

T> Yvan,

Nedavno Steve Sears pise:

| Yvan, | You used _THROTTLE BODY CLEANER_....right? Carburetor Cleaner is too | aggressive for the ISV and will dissolve the internal rubber seals - | making the ISV useless.

No, I used STP carburetor spray :-( I found some instructions:

| If it has only 2 contacts at the plug, take | it off the car and try to blow through it, if you can, then it's time | to replace it. The oxygen sensor may need replacing if it is the | original to the car - they are cheap if you get one for a common | 3-wired sensor (here in Canada, a Ford will do) and you can splice the | wiring harness yourself. Cheers!

I'll try, thanks.

Nedavno Tony pise:

| Check to see that the closed throttle switch on the throttle body is | making contact which activates the ISV. Use an ohm meter on the | electrical contacts on the plug on the top - back of the TB.

I'll do that.

| The 'lifter' noise that you hear on start-up is probably caused by | loose or broken exhaust manifold bolts on cylinder 3 - 5 and not | lifters. Common on the five cylinder engines. When the manifold heats | up it expands and closes the leak so it is quiet. Nothing to worry | about.

Sometimes ticking is loud, then it stops for a minute or two, than comes back again. Until engine warms up. when it is lot quieter. It still looks to me as a "lifter" noise (when I lean over the engine).

If you are quite sure that lifters are the cause, The 5 cylinders are fairly picky about their oil and filter. The oiling system operates at a high volume compared to domestic cars so if you use a cheap filter from the parts store this can be the result.

Go to bimmerparts.com and buy a German Mahle oil filter. Filter should be Mahle or Mann are sold by Audi as OEM. Change your oil and replace filter with a good one.

Do not use Fram oil filter.

Even if it is lifters you don't need to worry about progressive engine damage, just the annoyance of the sound.

T> Nedavno Tony pise:

Nedavno Tony pise:

| If you are quite sure that lifters are the cause,

Well, not that sure :-)

| The 5 cylinders are | fairly picky about their oil and filter. The oiling system operates at | a high volume compared to domestic cars

I'm in Europe :-) | Go to bimmerparts.com and buy a German Mahle oil filter. Filter should | be Mahle or Mann are sold by Audi as OEM. Change your oil and replace | filter with a good one.

I use only Mann filters.

| Even if it is lifters you don't need to worry about progressive engine | damage, just the annoyance of the sound.

That's what I wanted to knew. Thanks.