Just had to replace the battery on my '95 2.6 A6, the tick over was nice and steady before, but now it settles at 1500+ and seems to vary a bit - plus the engine seems a bit rough.
Is it just one of those things that will re-program itself over the next few hundred miles, and then it'll be fine?
cheers,
Matt.
"Matthew Maddock" wrote in message news:dbr0pj$gt4$ snipped-for-privacy@nwrdmz02.dmz.ncs.ea.ibs-infra.bt.com...
yes, the ecu will have powered down and settings lost, it will settle out.
dj
Thanks,
How long will it likely take to right itself.
It's very embarrassing sitting in traffic with the engine revving away!! Not to mention the fact that it is almost impossible to crawl.
Matt.
my A4 (2.4 V6) only took a drive to work which is approx 40 miles round trip.
OK, cheers,
I've only done about 5 slow miles so far! - I live in the city!
Matt.
"Matthew Maddock" wrote in message news:dbrfnh$41h$ snipped-for-privacy@nwrdmz02.dmz.ncs.ea.ibs-infra.bt.com...
Matt, M60 was me from my notebook. Yes, 5 miles is rather short. It must learn your driving technique so more variable driving will be required.
What I do is, drive then as your driving turn off the ignition then restart the car, try this once every 5-6 miles, it will reset somtimes it can take ages other times just 5 mins.
"Matthew Maddock" wrote in message news:dbr0pj$gt4$ snipped-for-privacy@nwrdmz02.dmz.ncs.ea.ibs-infra.bt.com...
Try doing a throttle body adaption. Disconnect the battery, wait 30 seconds or so & then reconnect. Then with the door open (don't ask me why the door needs to be open but alledgedly it does!). Switch the ignition on (but don't start the car). Wait 30-40 seconds during which time you might hear some whirring noises. Then start the thing & with a bit of luck all will be well.
I.
Just tried that, thanks.
didn't notice any whirring, and still doing same thing :-(
done about 30 miles now, still very annoying - it wouldn't be so bad if I wasn't driving around town all the time, but when the engine ticks over at 1400rpm, it makes crawling in traffic really difficult!
Matt.
you just been spooffffeeedddd.
now you gotta start all over again.
dj
What sad lives some people lead!
Ah well, I'd not done that much mileage anyway. It's going in for a service in the next few days anyway, so I'll ask them about sorting it for me.
Matt.
"Matthew Maddock" wrote in message news:dc3f7i$7kh$ snipped-for-privacy@nwrdmz03.dmz.ncs.ea.ibs-infra.bt.com...
not sure what an ecu check costs out there but it might be worth a check. Here in the UK its £30 ($50) by a third party test house. Had my sons checked recently because of poor running, the check showed up a problem and the repair cost £120 which included the £30 so it was better than the dealership who quoted me £200 for a new ecu.
somehow I doubt yours has a problem, just from a battery change, it just needs time to settle or even a nice long run out.
dj
I'm in the UK also.
Going to take it into "All Audi" in Bristol (anyone had previous experience of them?) I'm not paying the £80+ per hour rate at the dealerships! Besides, in my experience, once a car is more than about 10 years old, the dealerships know less about them than the independents.
I've used All Audi for parts a few years ago, and was very impressed, hopefully their service dept is as good.
Regardless, I'll give it a good run out tomorrow and see if it settles.
cheers,
Matt.
I might have missed it, but did you say the Engine Check light (aka MIL) is lit?
There's all kinds of folklore and outright voodoo about how to clear a MIL indicator after a battery or ECU replacement, but normally, a 15 to 20 minute driving loop including highway speeds, city speeds, full stops, idling time, and one full engine run-stop-run cycle, will clear the MIL functions.
What may have happened is some part (eg: the MAF) is so far out of adaptation range that the ECU cannot clear all of the bits to get the MIL to turn off. There's a certain amount of variation that the adaptation process will allow, and any part that's aged outside that range will fault the system until replaced. You can step on the ECU and the MIL bits all you want with a VAG-COM, for instance, but within a couple of days for sure that MIL will come right back on.
On the up side, this is covered so thoroughly in the diagnostic bits that it should be trivial for an Audi main line shop to diagnosis and fix, promptly...
/daytripper '00 s4 6spd, a Bentley CD, and a trusty VAG-COM
"Matthew Maddock" wrote in message news:dc3lj0$pnb$ snipped-for-privacy@nwrdmz03.dmz.ncs.ea.ibs-infra.bt.com...
Try this, start car, then turn off, then turn to possition 2 ( ignition on ) leave ignition on for 10 mins without starting car, sit in it of course incase someone jumps in & steals car, I think the ecu will go through a throttle body reset after a few miniutes if the engine is not started, pitty audi did not warn owners of the pitfall of changing a batery in the hand book,
Steve.
There is no warning light or otherwise.
I haven't really been out for a good run since, just pottered around town. I'll give it a good blast down some country roads tomorrow and hopefully get it cleared. If not, I'll get the garage to take a look.
cheers for the advice.
Matt
Sorted at bl**dy last!
It has reset itself twice in the past few days (after > 100 miles!) but once I've driven off, it returned to the problem above.
Today it reset itself twice on startup, but did as above again, however I was in traffic and messing about I switched the engine off and just let her roll downhill until I needed to drive off, then started the engine whilst rolling and it has been fine ever since! Not sure if that is a complete coincidence or what, but seems to have done the trick.
Now all I need to get sorted is the blowing exhaust - I'm praying that is isn't the cats, but it sounds like it's coming for that area :-(
Matt.
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