Yeah, I too wondered about that. Female bolt....... I imagine he is talking
about the hole a bolt would go into. Regardless, if it is stripped, perhaps
re-tapping the hole will do the trick. I'd have it done professionally,
Well it is actually a bolt and a nut all in one. Again I am a novice and
someone else was doing the work. I just was not comftorable with just
splitting the head if it was salvagable. Considering the fact that we did
not know if we actually had a cracked block or not and funds are tight.
Basically the top where the Torque Screw goes into the teeth are stripped.
So it is not a snug fit
Are you perhaps referring to a TORX bolt, where the head of the bolt has a
splined hole in the top to take a splined male driver bit? I don't think
any of the correspondents have suggested splitting the head, just splitting
the nut (if it is a nut).
If it's a bolt (that is a long thing with threads on the bottom end that
passes through a clearance hole in the head and screws into the block, and a
lump on the top that is either hexagonal for a conventional socket or
splined as suggested for a torx driver) then you have to try and remove the
whole bolt. You could try turning it with a hammer and chisel (but it will
be tight and you may just destroy it a bit more). Or try welding something
on the top of it that will allow you to get more leverage to unscrew it.
Take care to disconnect electronic ignition, alternator etc before doing any
<< To email me please swap over Denton and Lodge in my address >>
"Darnell Barber" < email@example.com> wrote in message
OK, I'm guessing on the "divided by a common language" principal.
I'm guessing, here, but do you have a TORX bolt/set screw?
If you have, then you have a TORX bolt/whatever *probably* going through a
clearance hole into *probably* either a cast iron or aluminium alloy
Either that or you have a big threaded spike appearing through said
clearance hole with a "dead" nut on it. That's a stud
As far as any damage goes - it's hard to say. A lot depends upon which one
you have - I haven't done a whole lot of stuff on Audi/VW engines (mostly
Ford, Rover, and a few bizarre things. I'm English; sorry; comes with the
If it's that TORX thingummy (like a hex-shaped dooberry, but with a
star-shaped hole in the top), then it's dreadfully important to let us know
if you might have tightened it by mistake (clockwise down, like a
corkscrew). If it's the spike wotsit, then breathe easy - nuts are but a
couple of cents, and can be split with a very inexpensive and
Whichever way, *please* let us know before getting a pair of Mole grips to
the bugger ("self-locking pliers"? Dunno, but they must be used in the US -
other observers, please supply the correct phrase! Commonly used for
rounding-off Mini brake adjusters..)
 Don't ask. Pointy thing disappearing into a hole in a bit expanse of
expensive metal? (*Not* taking the wotsit - I'd give you the same look if
you asked me about (e.g.) embroidery or the finer points of
flower-arranging! Or whatever you know loads about that I don't..)
 I didn't make up the lingo! Not trying to confuse, but you may see the
term from either a respondent or an engineer who looks at the problem. As
well as (hopefully!) helping to sort out what's going on, I would hate for
you to be bull***tted by a garage! "Clearance hole" means "big enough to fit
through without snagging" Us engineers aren't graced with a lot of
imagination. See next point for confirmation ;o)
 No, really. Use your imagination! ;o)
It sounds to me like a typical VW/Audi head bolt, a socket head bolt that
takes a 12 spline bit.
If it is, the head of the bolt can be carefully drilled off so that what is
left is effectively a stud. Just use a drill about the same diameter as the
hole in the bolt head. The cylinder head can then be removed from the block
and the offending "stud" removed with a stud extractor.
Hope this is not barking up the wrong tree.
Arrrgggghhhh. (Cough, cough)
No, not a good idea.
If it's a bolt, then it's mobile. It also tightens-up in the /same/
direction that a drill goes.
If you're lucky (and this is usually worse), you'll end up with a bolt
locked into the head, permanently deformed threads in an ally head, and a
Usually, you'll also end-up with a broken drill bit and Man's best attempt
at a hard substance jammed in the top of the bolt.
For best results, use an "easy-out" - they're harder to drill-out and (being
more brittle) are even more prone to breakage. That 10oz of plastique might
help, though ;o)
I still have two intact easy-outs out of my set of five - I've only used the
set thrice :o\
OTOH, if you /do/ bugger a "blind hole" (generally block/head. No insult
intended ;o), there's always the chance of recovering with a Helicoil/retap.
OP [Original Poster], please answer first..!
Hairy One Kenobi
Disclaimer: the opinions expressed in this opinion do not necessarily
Ooh Hairy you are such a wus!! I am only suggesting this technique because
from Darnell's description, it sounds very like a head bolt to me. I have
done this before (on an abused 1978 100 GL5E), honest! If the offending bolt
is indeed holding the cylinder head on still, it won't be mobile and it
won't turn under the torque of a CAREFULLY applied drilling implement.
Darnell, can you tell us what car/engine you are talking about?
I too have broken off easyouts and they are a nightmare. I use them as a
How do you get an easyout into the bolt in the first place?? You drill the
bolt. However, if you use a slightly larger drill, same diameter as the bolt
shank, and are CAREFUL you can use the socketed head of the bolt to guide
the drill. Eventually, you will get down to where the bolt shank meets the
bolt head and the bolt head will come off, probably stuck to the drill bit.
It's just like drilling out a rivet.
From a rough calc, if drilling the bolt fails, 10oz of plastique will be
just sufficient shift the head and give you a nice open air garage too.
I can recommend Aussie "Recoil" thread repair insert kits. They are really
easy to use and are excellent.
Sorry everyone, learning the proper names for the various bolts.
This is a Torx bolt (female) for an Audi 80 91' 5 cylinder engine
if this helps at all.
Someone mentioned a strong epoxy and letting it sit for a day.
Does this sound like something that could possibly work?
It just appears to be a bit easier than drilling etc...
AND MANY THANKS TO EVERYONE FOR THEIR INPUT.
I doubt if the epoxy will work. Torque is too high.
If you are SURE that it is stripped and that you just have the wrong
tool (English rather than metric, Allen rather than torx ...) you could
try this. Use another tool, one sized a bit bigger (try an English size)
and if it is slightly bigger, hammer it in very well and then try to use
an impact wrench to remove the bolt. Doing this will probably ruin the
tool because while it is hardened, it is still probably softer than the
head bolt. So you replace a cheap tool.
'91 100 Q 5spd
Darnell Barber wrote:
There are other things to try first, in my view.. it'll work with an iron
engine (which I believe the 100 was?), but can do "interesting" things to a
alloy block. Been there, seen it, had to fix it for someone.. nasty job,
A hardened high-carbon steel rivet, maybe ;o)
Personally, I'd try a few other things first - Mole grips being one ("Vice
grips" in the US - thanks day'). Most TORX that I've seen have a finished
head to make then easier to handle with oily hands, and can support /some/
The trick here is to make sure that your knuckles don't get too near to
something major when (not if!) they slip. (OT: many jobs on Minis were
described by the number of knuckles you'd damage in the process - "change
the clutch? <sucks teeth> That's a three-knuckle job, that is, mate")
The other time-honoured technique - if there's room - is to insert two
blades into a hacksaw (each pointing in opposite directions), and cut a
small groove in the head. This allows you to get a flat-blade screwdriver in
there. Eventually. Lot's of scope for slipping, banging head against block,
and stabbing oneself in the leg with a screwdriver - be careful!
/Absolute/ last result is to try and cut flats to take a conventional
spanner. The bolt will ruin a bastard file (and anything finer will simply
slide over the surface), and grinders aren't the easiest thing to control in
an underbonnet environment. Best to have the engine on the bench for that
Haven't worked on the engine quoted - if it's an alloy block, then the bolt
may be corroded-in. A sharp (but gentle) tap with a hammer along the centre
axis of the bolt may help to break any corrosion-locking.
Graphite-based penetrating oil can also help, but it's a bugger to get out
again - remember, if you lubricate a torqued joint, then you'll get a
massively increased torque. And snapped bolts are an even bigger bitch to
Plusgas (effectively Zippo fuel) and WD-40 might also work (and are easier
to remove - they evapourate), but don't be surprised if you use a whole can
(and are completely stoned!) without affecting the bolt all that much.
Excellent for ally parts; I tend to re-tap holes in cast iron (I trust it a
bit more when taking a torque..)
There is actually a special-made drill bit for exactly such an
operation. I have used it for exhaust manifold studs gone wrong.
It is a reverse-twist bit. You use a dental burr chucked into a
Dremel to indent the top of the stud. Then apply the drill bit with
the drill set to "reverse." Now, this is after a couple of days
soaking with a penetrating oil. I have always been able to get the
job done this way. It may not work in this case, but it's worth a
E-mail me: rfjonesy *at* hotmail *dot* com
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