Trouble with these gut feelings about 'extended' lubricant life is that they are just that - gut feelings. I doubt any individual has done the same research as the maker. And before you mention 'free' servicing on a new car as the reason, not every country gets this.
Yeah, because this procedure is intended for use by BMW factory trained mechanics that will have such tools laying about the shop tool crib. But I prefer to use a "special tool" that I call a C-clamp. Works quite nicely, thanks, and doubles as a... well, a C-clamp.
The main point in my post (since you seem to have missed or ignored it) is that the manufacturer says you *don't* open the bleed screw when depressing the caliper pistons. This on the exact car in question, which by the way does have the dreaded ABS brakes.
Ah yes. That discredits them completely then, doesn't it. What do they know about the cars they make. I mean compared to you, that is...
That's actually a good point, Dave. Not to infer you've never made one before... ;-)
I don't think I've ever seen *credible* evidence that shows the purported "lifetime fluid" was the actual cause of a failed transmission. Lots of anecdotal blabbering, but in all of those cases who's to say that the failure in question would not have happened if the fluid was changed every day?
But you, nor most of the readers of BMW TIS, are BMW factory trained techs with such tools laying about the shop tool crib. Point?
So, IOW, with your second and third sentence, you threw water all over the bullshit it the first, written above. You're trolling and don't even know it. BTW, I've always used the wooden handle end of a rubber hammer I have, and it also works quite nicely. I just put the wooden end flat up against the surface of the piston and, in effect, push with the rubber end.
Do they specifically say "don't" open the bleed screws when pushing the pistons back in? I frankly doubt it makes much difference to the brakes either way. It's just easier and less hassle to do it with the bleeder bleeding fluid.
The manufacturer says a lot of things, and leaves a lot out too. If you swallow all the hype, baloney and outright lies that comes from BMW, then I've got a bridge......
But you have Cliff's permission continue to not open the bleed screws.
----- Kill ratio of Palestinian children to Israeli children 5.7-to-1, Israel's favor. Kill ratio of all Palestinians to Israelis: over 3-to-1.
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I just use my hands. Never had the need for a special or non-special tool.
Just your hands!? Damn, yer more man than I am.
----- Kill ratio of Palestinian children to Israeli children 5.7-to-1, Israel's favor. Kill ratio of all Palestinians to Israelis: over 3-to-1.
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Top be honest, I have done it manually too, pushing the caliper against the disk (rotor) after removing the guide pins, but only when in a pinch. I had a brake pad fail on my tow vehicle (Ford Exploder) this past summer up while up in Northern Maine and had to change them in the gravel driveway of the camp we were staying at. The broken pad friction material was dragging on the rotors and causing them to heat up. I had a few tools in the truck but hadn't taken my big C-clamp since... well, it is big, and heavy.
But when doing the job in my garage at home I find that a c-clamp ensures the piston get pressed back evenly and in a controlled fashion.
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