So you know as much about computers as cars then?
BTW, telling the world who or who is not in your killfile shows just how
overvalued you think your opinions are. I doubt anyone cares who you read
except for yourself. So live with it.
*Sometimes I wake up grumpy; Other times I let him sleep.
Dave Plowman email@example.com London SW
Thanks for your reply.
Most of the replies I received contained useful information. Especially
the one that mentioned www.bimmerzone.com.
I'll have to spend a little to get the 'reset tool' and a proper manual,
but since I expect to drive my car 'til the wheels fall off, I'll save
quite a bit over the long run.
Of course we are clueless about the US versions as all the US versions are de
tuned Euro cars. We get the real ones over here and that is why Dinan etc have
to modify the US version to get them close to the UK-Euro spec.
No that isn't why. that is due to market forces. In the US according to BMW it
is a prestige vehicle where in Germany is it as common as shit or should that be
Nobody in the US would buy a 1.8Lt 4 door sedan with steel wheels but in Germany
they do and the UK has high fuel costs so we do get the smaller engined models
but invariable they are loaded to the gills with goodies to make then a
The base models do not come with a sunroof, tinted glass and alloy wheels and
are quite cheap to buy. The US as I said get models that sing and dance but due
to your "safety" and "emission" controls loads of Euro stuff get demoted. I
understand that some of the same specced cars that we have limited to 155mph you
get limited to 135mph. If that isn't a case of de tuning (Ok so that is simply
LMAO! Boy, are you too serious and can't understand the slightest
BTW, your comments about US cars having less performance is
simply no longer true (except in a very few cases such as the M3 CSL
not being available.) For instance, I could go up to Bellevue BMW and
buy an Alpina B7 *RIGHT NOW*. The rest of your comments can
also be dismissed as the rantings of a clueless person who doesn't
really know much about the American market's cars.
Bzzzt. Wrong answer. Lots of people in the US buy 1.8liter (or smaller
engined) cars with steel wheels, etc. Just not from BMW or any other
german marque (close exception being VW). When US consumers look at the
econoboxes they either go Asian or domestic. The domestic cars are
probably the cheapest to own as the service costs are considerably
lower. There are lots of domestic US cars made that get good gas
mileage. They just drive like crap.
Point taken Fred - I forgot to mention that - It's the same over here people buy
crap cars (Not all other makes are crap - just to the like of you and me and my
ex-wife's Toyota and my friend's (yes I do have some) Honda are not crap just
I have already disproved that - US cars have the most powerful engines
I don't know what you mean by "badged ..." Certainly US BMWs have
different options and packages. For instance, no "Se" package has ever
existed over here.
This has been heavily posted about over the last few years. US uses a
HP rating system than EU, and because of *STRICTER* US emissions
the engines often have a few less HP due mostly to placement of the catalyst
closer to the engine, and inclusion of an air pump for startup reduction.
Most US cars weigh a bit more - they all have A/C, power windows and door
locks, power seats (except for some 3-series) for instance. There is also
some slight differences because US roads have different characteristics
(concrete joints and surfaces) than EU and demands different suspension
tuning to accomodate those conditions, especially natural frequencies; you
wouldn't want to be bouncing due to a road-induced harmonic.
You're completely wrong on this. US-designed engines make just as much HP
as EU-designed engines. Engineering is engineering, after all. My guess is
looking at displacement; the same reason not many diesel engines are used is
same reason bigger gasoline engines exist: it's cheaper to go big than
Diesel is a whole different ball park (soccer pitch? rugby? cricket?)
Uhh, the last time I checked 500 hp is more than 380 hp. Better get
your facts straight (of course, that hasn't stopped you in the past).
BTW, BMW doesn't make a 5L V8; it's 4.8L. Again, you need to
check your facts.
Ok so they list it as a 750 it's close enough and the 745 was a 4.4 and the 740
I actually meant the V12 sorry about that.
I notice that the Ford Jaguar has to also use a supercharger to anywhere near
the torque of the new 535d or even that of the euro 4.0 V8 diesel BMW.
It is such a pity that your gas prices are not near the European prices because
US engineers might just start to go smaller with high efficiency.
BTW I absolutely adore the 69-72 Cuda' & Challenger pity they don't go around
corners and have that big iron donk up front - the Hemi is nice @ 6MPG
IMHO it dates from the early days of emission control where the mods made
to US spec cars did reduce the maximum power output of a European engine -
and by quite a margin. These days there is little difference in emissions
spec anyway and methods of achieving this are far more sophisticated with
consequently less losses.
There are a few more recent examples of US spec BMWs having poorer
performance, though. Early 6 cylinder E39 autos (and others) had 4 speed
autos rather than the ZF 5 speed which did make a difference to the
performance. Why, I've never discovered.
*Give me ambiguity or give me something else.
Dave Plowman firstname.lastname@example.org London SW
If you have your manuals, you should have a booklet titled "Service and
Warranty Information" which has the maintenance schedule for Oil Service,
Inspection I and Inspection II. It also allows for your dealer/tech to
document the service. On your car, the service lights illuminate based on
fuel consumption (only ... so many liters and the lights come on), which
usually runs in the 15-16,000 mile range: Oil, Insp 1, Oil, Insp 2, etc.
You can get the schedules on the BMW owner's circle. To join all you need
is your VIN.
Things not mentioned in the service, but should be:
Differential ... Every 30K (every Inspection is good enough)
P/S fluid ... Every 30K
Manual trans ... Every 30K
I'd also recommend drain and refill of the coolant on a 2 year schedule vice
R / John
What part of "when the lights go out" don't you understand? Perhaps I can help
- When the green lights go out and the orange one comes on - book it in. If the
red light comes on the car will self destruct within 15 miles if not taken to a
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