Besides some bone-head moves by the previous owner in relationship to rims and improper lug nuts....
Truck is running fine, the one thing I have found is the electric choke isn't working properly - when I drove for 20 min and burnt 1/4 a tank of gas I was somewhat suspicious :-)
I have a napkin stuff in the works (on the outside of the carb) right now so it's ALWAYS open.
If the carb is in good shape otherwise, put on an electric choke If it isn't, have it rebuilt. They will put on a new electric choke. Or, buy a carb. With electric choke.
How much of the original electronics are still hooked up to the carb, and is it still working? Did you put a voltmeter on the choke wire? You should get 12 volts on it with the key on.
1/4 tank of gas in 20 miles isn't the choke, it's an improperly tuned carb. The choke doesn't increase fuel flow, it restricts (chokes) the air flow to get a rich mixture. All it is is a plate; not hooked up to the fuel delivery circuit in any way.
1985' Chevy K5 Electric Choke & KJ update. Group: alt.trucks.chevy Date: Thu, Oct 23, 2003, 12:24am (CDT+5) From: snipped-for-privacy@REMOVEworldnet.att.net (KJ) Besides some bone-head moves by the previous owner in relationship to rims and improper lug nuts.... Truck is running fine, the one thing I have found is the electric choke isn't working properly - when I drove for 20 min and burnt 1/4 a tank of gas I was somewhat suspicious :-) I have a napkin stuff in the works (on the outside of the carb) right now so it's ALWAYS open. Opinions - pros - cons of the NG on my choices? A: Replace electric choke B: Manual choke
Besides some bone-head moves by the previous owner in relationship to rims and improper lug nuts....
Truck is running fine, the one thing I have found is the electric choke isn't working properly - when I drove for 20 min and burnt 1/4 a tank of gas I was somewhat suspicious :-)
I have a napkin stuff in the works (on the outside of the carb) right now so it's ALWAYS open. Opinions - pros - cons of the NG on my choices? A: Replace electric choke B: Manual choke .......................... snipped-for-privacy@charter.net (John=A0Alt)
If the carb is in good shape otherwise, put on an electric choke If it isn't, have it rebuilt. They will put on a new electric choke. Or, buy a carb. With electric choke. How much of the original electronics are still hooked up to the carb, and is it still working?
Did you put a voltmeter on the choke wire? You should get 12 volts on it with the key on.
------------------------------
KJ don't own no voltmeter.....he's got a
1156 light bulb soldered to a cloths hanger.
and.....you can bet one thing
if that carb is on KJ's truck......it ain't in good shape.
=F8=F8 =BF o
nubbs ~:~admires kj's ingenuity....and thunks he's jest wanting an excuse to rebuild his carb~:~
I wasn't able to collect enough solder off of junk boards to get the telephone wire i stoled to stick to the clothes pin. It just turned black and smelt funny before the lead stuck to it.
Kinda hard. But I suppose it be true..................
No, I'd really like a cheap fix for right now. There is a single wire heading to it right now, has no juice when the key is on, or when the engine is running. I've also noticed that the choke like comes on INTERMITTENTLY. There seems to be more of a problem with the choke RETRACTING though. Anyone know common reasons for this? It is getting cold around here, and it needs to be fixed soon - but I want some things to look for before I get to getting at it.
Are there any spots where this wire can be expected to fray, break, or just plain to be crappy?
Thoughts for a quick fix.
Wire & switch to put 12v manually to the choke. Some kind of spring to pull it open? I'm assuming that it is pulled closed by the choke (never seen it actually move)
I'm 100% sure with time, and a warm shop I could rip this down and make it good again, but I have neither of these really so I'd appreciate some "you idiot look here" tips. Once this portion of my carb is in working order I can ask you for "you idiot adjust this" tips to get my truck running a little better. It went from too fast an idle, to too slow an idle. I've actually had it stall at lights.... Had a friend who re routed some tubes as best he could remember, it ran a little slower after that. Showed me the carb was open (I had that suspicion because of the gas mileage), and turned the distributor clockwise a bit (almost 100% sure clockwise). However I cannot turn it c-clockwise any more, because there is some kind of mixture with a vacuum tube attached to it is hitting the intake manifold.
/me KJ bows his head in shame.
ALSO: In relation to carbs, does anyone know where I could find a schematic for the vacuum tubes of my carb? I'd assume no one wants to explain how they should be routed... :- ) I've got headers, and whoever owned this before didn't think there was much need for vacuum tubes. If I remember there is a "emissions schematic" on top of the radiator top mount. But this doesn't show all the vacuum tubes. However this might be my 88' S10..... again I want to stay nice and warm in front my CRT.....
Quick fix is to run a wire off of any switched source (such as the coil or anything else that runs off the key) and tie it into the choke.
If it needs to move more, you can pull out the distributor and move it over a tooth. Note that you will have to get a long straightblade screwdriver or similar to turn the oil pump shaft, so you can put it back in. If you have to move it, post back here for more complete instructions.
I don't know of any online. Your local library might have something, or try a boneyard for a similar vehicle. Maybe even a neighbor will let you stick your head under their truck. Last resort, go look at one for sale. Tell them your taking pictures under the hood for your mechanic to evaluate :)
I know no one will believe this, but I posted asking if a manual switch would be a viable solution and it never appeared on the server for whatever reason. My other carb vehicle is my 72' Malibu and it has a holly carb with manual choke, my 88' S10 is TBI.......
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Both times, but thanks for the help. I know diagrams are available for sale, but I am of the idea that the exchange of information should be free.
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