1997 Chev S-10 Driveshaft 2WD

U-joints?

If you want to replace a factory u-joint, I'd highly recommend taking the drive shafts to a drivetrain shop. I paid less then $60 to have all 4 removed and new ones put in (I think it was closer to $50). Well worth the money as, yes, factory u-joints need to be heated with a torch and pounded out as they are held in my injected plastic.

Octane rating is a measurement of the gasoline's ability to stop pre-detonation... only. It's nothing else. The octane rating is not a measurement of the gasoline's cleaning ability. If you want to run a cleaning agent through the gasoline system, try Chevron Tecroline.

Todd, I wasnt refering to the Ujoints, I was refering to the spacer between them. I already replaced mine about a month ago. After you remove the Ujoint there is a ball that goes in side a 2 peice socket that is spring loaded under it with a washer that sits on top of the spring, this allows the two joints to move freely in opposite directions of each other. There is a zert there to grease them but you need a needle. I dont have one but have taken it to shops, and they can never seem to get grease up into them, I am afraid one of them has dried up again. I was told this is something they call a Velocity Joint, and I was also told CV Joint.

Todd, by the way, I have heard to use Chevron from other people. I might give it a try. Chevron isnt in my area, but I see their Techron advertisement at Autozone. I might have to buy a bottle. Thanks