Fitting Rover 214 driveshaft

OK, about a week ago I had the offside driveshaft on my 1991 Rover 214 fail. Basically it completely broke in two about a 1/3 of the way from the outer CV joint. There's a dodgy bearing in my gearbox which I've known about for the 9months I've had the car so I originally thought this had failed and put stress on the driveshaft which made it fail although when up on axle stands I ran the gearbox and it seemed its normal self. Also, after taking the driveshaft off, the inner CV joint was completely mangled although I wasn't too sure if this is what caused the driveshaft failure in the first place or whether driving for half a mile after it failed made a mess of this joint.

Anyway, I got a reconditioned driveshaft and after a lot of messing about, managed to get the gearbox spline end in. Put the other end into the wheel assembly and proceeded to tighten up the bolts for the lower suspension arm, and trackrod joint. However, the driveshaft now rubs against the bracket where the lower suspension arm attaches to the chassis to such an extent that I can't actually fasten the two tie bar bolts to the lower arm and have no idea what's going on. The recon driveshaft has slightly larger diameter than the old one but not to the extent where this problem should arise. Does anybody have any clues as to what might be going on?!

If the problem is something structural then this might explain why the old driveshaft broke at roughly the same point where the new one rubs against the chassis although there was nothing in earlier months to suggest that something as bad as this might have happened.

Reply to
Adam
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In message , Adam writes

These drive-shafts snap due to corrosion, the rubber weight about 2/3 down holds water in against the shaft causing it to rust and fail in time.

A quick way of replacing them is to undo the bolt that holds the anti roll bar link to the lower arm (13mm head bolt) then undo the inner bolt that holds the lower arm into the subframe (13mm head bolt). This should give enough movement to enable fitment of the shaft. If not, undo the 2

15mm head bolts that bolt the tie rod to the lower arm. As for why the shaft rubs, (assuming that the subframe or lower arm isn't bent out of shape), is it the same length as the old one? You haven't been given the wrong side have you? When refitting I find it easier to fit the 13mm head bolt through the lower arm and subframe first, then the 2 15mm tie bar bolts then finally the anti roll bar bush bolt. Hope this helps, if not let me know.

Al

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Reply to
Al

Another thing that has been brought to my attention is that my new shaft didn't come with a dynamic damper (rubber weight) and when I spoke to the guy in the store about it he came up with some story about how new shafts don't require it and that somehow vibration has been engineered out. The new shaft is thicker than the old one so it does kind of help his story but I'm not 100% convinced. Does this seem valid or should there definitely be a damper on it? Apart from that the shaft is exactly the right length and has the joints in the same place as the old one.

Thanks for the advice on getting the old one out as I ended up making a mess of the two balljoint rubber covers following what the manual said and with your approach I wouldn't have to touch them at all. I'll have to remember that if I'm going to have to take the shaft out again.

At the moment, the suspicion is that one of the engine mountings has failed which led to the old shaft resting against the subframe which broke it and is now not letting me fit the new one.

Reply to
Adam

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