Have you changed a drivers side motor mount on a 98 Chevy Blazer, four wheel drive, with 4.3?
I may be doing one later this year when it warms up. Havn't looked under, but it's got to be tight quarters to work with. I did one years ago, on a rear drive Dodge Van, and that wasn't too bad.
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Not real bad from underneath. IF the oil lines haven't been replaced it is a good time to do them if they are seeping.
Thanks. From what I can figure, have to jack up the vehicle, take the drivers front wheel off, and that will help get at things. One bolt maybe from the top.
The Haynes book says not to lift from under the oil pan, risk of damaging the oil pickup. I'll probably put a second jack under the transmission, to lift some of the weight.
It's tight, for oil, holds OK between oil changes.
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Not real bad from underneath. IF the oil lines haven't been replaced it is a good time to do them if they are seeping.
Watch where you jack under there not many places where the metal can handle the weight. I would recommend making a simple bridge over the engine with a solid block on one side and the spare jack to lift the engine. Couple of 2x4s will do the job.
Grab a set of gear wrenches and you can get in there easier. (Sears has a Christmas set on clearance for like 40-50 bucks)
Not sure what you mean "bridge over the engine".
Also don't know what you mean "gear wrenches".
Christopher A. Young Learn more about Jesus
Watch where you jack under there not many places where the metal can handle the weight. I would recommend making a simple bridge over the engine with a solid block on one side and the spare jack to lift the engine. Couple of 2x4s will do the job.
Grab a set of gear wrenches and you can get in there easier. (Sears has a Christmas set on clearance for like 40-50 bucks)
Stack some blocks or similar on each side and bridge the gap then attach a chain ti the engine and use a jack and lift the engine enough to take the weight off the mount.
GearWrench - self contained ratcheting box end wrenches
Stack some blocks or similar on each side and bridge the gap then attach a chain ti the engine and use a jack and lift the engine enough to take the weight off the mount.
CY: Should use overhead chain and lift? Not sure I have any way to do that.
GearWrench - self contained ratcheting box end wrenches
CY: OK, understand, now.
That would be preferred. Why not hit one of the parts stores and see if they have a cherry picker for rent, most of the loan a tool places have the one use per 20 year tools so you don't have to buy one.
Used to throw a couple of wooden blocks on the fender and a chunk of steel beam across the top, a hook on the exhaust manifold to a turnbuckle, and jack the side of the engine up enough to pull the mount by turning the turnbuckle.. Extremely fine position control that you can NOT get with a rental cherry picker (which usually has a leaky valve that lets the engine slowly come down on your finger) The alternative is a roughly one foot square hunk of 3/4" plywood under the oil pan, with a screw jack under it - which tends to want to lift the whole motor when you only want one side up. (as does the cherry picker if you use the "normal" lift points)
It's a thought. I was thinking to use two jacks, under the oil pan and under the transmission. Put the lift power on something sturdy. Of course, I havn't really looked closely.
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That would be preferred. Why not hit one of the parts stores and see if they have a cherry picker for rent, most of the loan a tool places have the one use per 20 year tools so you don't have to buy one.
The problem with newer vehicles is fenders that can barely support their own weight. The oil pan would be viable except they are crap on the blazers.
Make a "bridge" that stands on the frame if the fenders are not strong enough.'
Now, the brakes are scraping in the back.
Too cold for the driveway, so I'm going to a garage, soon as they can fit me in.
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Been a while since the back brakes were changed. Bought some pads, and go to to the repair garage. I arrived, and they are waiting for a part, so they can finish a thermostat job, and get the vehicle out of the bay for me.
Pull my truck in. Both inner pads are down to the metal. One caliper leaking. Call the parts store, and have a caliper delivered. Caliper arrived, after much time. The nearby store no longer delivers, so they called a farther away store which does delivery. They sent the right front, I needed left rear. Send the parts fly car guy out to get the other part. More waiting. Correct caliper arrived, and they put that in, bled the brakes and so on. Total cost about $240 including the pads I bought.
Christopher A. Young Learn more about Jesus
Too cold for the driveway, so I'm going to a garage, soon as they can fit me in.
Christopher A. Young Learn more about Jesus
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