98 Blazer, front shocks

Shouldn't be that bad. The usual problems with rust. The BIG problem is usually that the bolt rusts to the sleeve.

Heat is your friend. If you have a torch great. If not grab a MAPP torch from your favorite store. They help a LOT with the NY rust...

I've had bolts rust to the sleeves, for sure. I do have mapp and actetlyene torches. A friend has offered his place "has all the tools". Of course, I'd be a bit more comfortable working at my place, as I've got a second vehicle to drive if we need parts, etc. He'll have a car, but I'm still more comfortable in my own driveway.

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Shouldn't be that bad. The usual problems with rust. The BIG problem is usually that the bolt rusts to the sleeve.

Heat is your friend. If you have a torch great. If not grab a MAPP torch from your favorite store. They help a LOT with the NY rust...

Your all set. The only thing I can think of is that most newer shocks are sold with a tie wrap on them to keep them short till your ready I like to install the bottom first, then cut the tie and let it extend up into the upper mount.

Do yourself a BIG favour and buy a nut splitter. Trying to remove a nut from a shock-shaft that just spins can be enough fun without upstate new york rust.

Torch and rubber bushings is a bad combination.

Not if your careful. I heat the nut then hit it with penetrant. Usually the thermal shock makes it easier to remove.

I've been doing it since 1969 - and NOTHING beats a nut splitter for removing the nut from the bolt end of a chevy front shock. I've burned them off too - it's faster than a splitter - but burning rubber bushings bouncing around when the shock comes off is not a good idea in most shops - or under the shade tree.

I like the bottom, and cut approach. I've had the bolt rust to the sleeve. That's no fun. Can't remember how I got it loose. BFH, or C clamp. One, back shock, I drilled the rubber out, then held the sleeve with vise grips, and turned the nut wtih a wrench.

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Your all set. The only thing I can think of is that most newer shocks are sold with a tie wrap on them to keep them short till your ready I like to install the bottom first, then cut the tie and let it extend up into the upper mount.

Doesn't the subject say FRONT shocks?????

On MOST Chevy FRONT shocks there are 2 bolts to fasten the bottom to the lower control arm - and a single stud that pokes up through the top saddle in a set of rubber bushings, with a nut threaded on from the top. No metal tubular bushings to seize to anything. Nut splitter is #1. Acetylene torch is number 2, and I've even removed quite a few with a deep socket on a 12 inch extension - and just rock it back and forth a few times untill the stud breaks off, just below the nut.

That would be on a 2WD, The T series 4X4 uses two through bolts. The lower ones goes through tabs on the control arm. The upper goes through a mount welded to the frame.

One stuck upper I did took a cut off tool and cut the shock eye, then the rubber then cut the bolt into pieces. Would have used the hot wrench but was out of gas....

My front shocks are held, both top and bottom, by a horizontal bolt. The last set I had done, the mechanic used impact gun, and slipped that up from the wheel well.

I've delt with the vertical threaded shaft type. But, that was earlier vehicles.

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That would be on a 2WD, The T series 4X4 uses two through bolts. The lower ones goes through tabs on the control arm. The upper goes through a mount welded to the frame.

One stuck upper I did took a cut off tool and cut the shock eye, then the rubber then cut the bolt into pieces. Would have used the hot wrench but was out of gas....

The 2WD version has the top stud mount.

Thanks to all who contributed. This Am, I got early start, jack up the drivers side, and pull the wheel. Before my friend Tim arrived. The brake rotor was in miserable shape, but the pads still had plenty of pad left. I made some calls. One place wanted $42 per rotor, and the other wanted $30 or so. Closer place was cheaper, go figure.

The brake pins were bolts, not torx head, which worked out well. My assortment of sockets did OK, and the electic impact wrench helped, a lot. There was a bracket to take off, so as to get the rotor off.

For the top shock bolts, I held the nut with a deep 19 socket and breaker bar from above. Tim turned the bolt with socket, wobble extension from HF, and his air wrench. He brought his 5 HP compressor, and forgot an air hose. Fortunately, we're both on HF standard fittings. Used my air hose.

The lower bolt was easier to unbolt. Had to turn the steering, to clear the tie rod, so the bolt would come out. I neglected to grease the bolts for the shocks. Tim figures that I won't need another set of shocks, for this ancient vehicle. I hope he's right.

The shocks were a whisker wider than the brackets. Took some pounding and prying to line them up. The bolts have chamfered ends, which is nice. Get em started, and pound them through the sleeve and bracket.

I marine greased the bolts for the brakes, and greased the studs for the wheel lugs. The wheels went on, OK, and torqued to 100 foot pounds.

Now, to go back out and do the oil change I forgot earlier.

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