I have an 86 Chev C10 that is shifting a little late and won't kick down. I know that you push the metal part in the middle of the thing that holds the cable on the back of the engine, and then move the cable in or out. Which way do I need to go with it? Some background -- truck has a 6.2. I bought it with a bad 700R4, and a friend installed the 700 out of an 83, also a 6.2, that I junked out due to rust. I had the 83 about 20 years and the trans worked perfectly the entire time. It did sit for several years before I finally decided to get rid of it. Any advice will be greatly appreciated. Thanks Larry
Adjustments are made with the engine off. If equipped with cruise control, remove the control rod.
Disconnect the TV Cable end from the throttle lever.
Loosen the locknut on the pump rod and shorten several turns.
Turn throttle lever to WOT and tighten the pump rod locknut.
Lengthen pump rod until injection pump lever contacts the full throttle stop.
Release the throttle lever and tighten the pump rod locknut.
Remove pump rod from the throttle lever.
Reconnect the TV Cable end to the throttle lever.
Press in the adjust tab and move slider away from the throttle lever.
Release the tab and rotate the throttle lever to WOT and the cable will self adjust itself as evidenced by a few audible clicks. Release the throttle lever and check the cable for any signs of binding or sticking.
Reconnect the pump rod and cruise control throttle rod, if equipped.
If equipped with cruise control, adjust servo throttle rod to minimum slack.
Road test the vehicle. Under moderate acceleration your shift points should be close to the following:
If the cable is adjusted too loosely your transmission will exhibit soft, stacked shifts (not spread out). DO NOT CONTINUE DRIVING VEHICLE IF THIS HAPPENS!
My last blazer was a 1989. I had trouble, the shift didn't want to stay in park when I stopped. The handle was in park, but the Tx would be in reverse, or between gears. I had a couple times the truck nearly rolled off a hill cause the shift didn't go far enough. I took it to the Aamco shop, and they drove it in. Gave me a song about how the shift linkage was all worn out.
Finally, I ran it up on a wheel ramp. Sure enough, just front of the drivers floor was an adjustment. I had to shift into L-1 and that brought the adjuster down a lot. Chock the rear wheels, of course. As I remember, I loosened it with half inch wrench, slid the rod that went to the TX up about 3/8 inch, in relation to the rod that came down from the shift. And retightened the bolt. Worked fine after that. Shade tree mechanic did what Aamco could not.
I doubt that relates to your vehicle, but it was a good moment for me, and I enjoy reliving it.
Aamco could have done that but they don't make money by fixing that kind of problem, they make money by screwing people and they are darn good at it. It seems like almost all chains are crooked.
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