I posted here a while ago about an 82 Suburban I bought. It has issues, It sat for 3 years, I put a battery in it and drove most of it home. I got some books now, I,ve been under that thing for 37 hours now, over 4 weekends. I was getting dejected today. Because I busted off a manifold stud, with a 1/4 inch sticking out. F$!#$%***# . And after welded the rear shock mount back on, I broke off with a hammer, two weeks ago , due to frozen in the shock bolts. It broke off when I tightened the bottom bolt. My shitty ass mig welder on a 50 amp service line. I,m going to take it to someone who has an arc welder. I had to regroup, take an Adderal and coffee, and managed to get them out with a torch and different stud removers. What Luck!!!. I hope that was the last big issue. But I,ve got three shocks changed, the trans , rear-end, engine oil changed. The rear brakelines changed , but not bled yet. I did get the bleeders loose. But I couldn't do it by myself , even with a Mity vac. Anyone think I can block the brake pedal down with a 4x4 and get fluid to draw with a MityVac. Also I found 80% of the tune up vacuum chart today too, on the bottom of the air filter housing. So I,m hoping its downhill from here. So I have a couple of minor things I'm wanting input on to save some bucks. First, the heat riser flapper is gone. just the shaft is left, and the vacuum arm was disconnected, but still works anyway. The new one is 44 bucks. I,d like to put it back on and leave it . And there's a vacuum valve for the distributor called the timing delay valve. Its 35 bucks. Its missing. I think it keeps the advance working when its cold. because of the draw on all the vacuum lines in there. When its cold it directs vacuum to the distributor first, and cuts off some other stuff.. When its hot it directs straight to the carb. Its operated by a temp switch in the air cleaner. I just want to hook the distrib straight to the same carb port and bypass the temp switch, and the delay valve. . Also its got an aftermarket choke that's working ok, with the gas down, but it catches on the fast idle steps, from the auto choke, without the gas down , and wont open. and is a mild irritation to adjust after the engines started. I,m leaving the air pump on as I think it still works. so I,m going to get new check valves. I hav,nt bought an exhaust yet. I can get the factory single for about 300, Its essentially a 2.5 exhaust with a 2.25 tailpipe, no converter. or duals 2.25 all the way back , for about $225- 275. But I have to add the other hangars. I could let a muffler shop do it too. I don't know which is better for power and gas mileage, but I don't want much noise either. I,m not going to be dogging it but would like to go 70 on the freeway easily. Carpeting or not, this hog is hauling crap or waiting for a load. I was thinking of hanging RV mufflers on it like my International. No back pressure but still quiet. Well, I,m almost rolling, Any ideas are greatly appreciated. Thanks Vern Diesel
- posted
17 years ago