ABS light

I just took my truck out after sitting for a week. When I got to the corner it acted like the brakes were not going to work at all. After I got around the corner I noticed the ABS light was on. The next couple of stops slowly got better, I think the brakes are working O.K. now, but the light is still on. Is there a way of resetting so I can see if it comes on again? A friend of mine has an '02 that just went through the same problem, only cost him $525! Mine is a '04 2500HD with disc brakes all the way around. I have been leaving this sit more and just using it when I really need it because of the ridiculous diesel fuel prices.

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Reply to
Doug Adams
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You should be able to "clear" any codes by disconnecting both batteries for a few minutes.

Reply to
Ed H.

Normally a ABS code will reset it's self. When you first turn on your truck the ABS should turn on to do a self test for a few seconds and then turn off. If it then pops back on or is just always on, then something else it wrong! Generally unplugging the battery is not going to fix the problem, that may work sometimes on OBD systems, but not ABS. Where do you leave your truck sitting around at? How's the weather? May be something with one of the wheel sensors, but the easiest thing to do is have a ABS scanner plugged in and read what the code is and see if it's a simple fix or not. Normally when the ABS light pops on, your just now braking like a normal brake system without ABS at all. Generally letting your truck sit a week shouldn't be a problem, just some bad luck. I know Diesel around here is like $4.17 a Gallon. I know someone with a 1 ton 06 Ford Dually and he's been complaining about diesel fuel prices lately. Hell I'm riding my Motorcycle a little more then taking my truck. Thank goodness I have a short commute. I moved years ago to get closer to work because I didn't like the 30 minute Commute and it was getting worse with adding all the stoplights alone the way, more and more each year on the highway. Now I'm a couple miles away. I'm just waiting for a little better weather to take out my gas guzzling Jetski that needs Premium fuel! So that's around $4.20 right now and will be worse come summer time. I can burn though 10 gallons in a hour easily! These days I just don't go out as much on the jetski, and ride the much cheaper Motorcycle.

"Doug Adams" wrote in message news:1207617775 snipped-for-privacy@isp.n...

Reply to
JBDragon

I have started and shut off the truck several times, the light stays on all the time. The brakes seem to work fine now, but the back rotors are very rusty. My friend says his does the same thing. My truck only has 37,500 miles on it, I hope this isn't the start of a long list of problems. I already had to have the glow plug module replaced, it just doesn't seem like things should start going bad this soon.

I have a scan tool, but I guess it is just good for engine and transmission codes, wouldn't you know it! Who sells a decent ABS scan tool? I guess as far as I'm concerned I don't care if the ABS work or not, so if its too expensive I'll just have "regular brakes".

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Reply to
Doug Adams

I would check for rust flakes on the wheel sensors

Whitelightning

Reply to
Whitelightning

Does your speed odometer stop working when the ABS light came on? This happened to me and it turned out to be a speed sensor in the rear. My abs light came on and my speed odo went from 75 to 0 in about 2 seconds.

Reply to
jason marsico

I've got access to the online version of Mitchell On Demand for the next few weeks if anyone needs me to look something up.

Reply to
scrape

I've got a friend that has a scanner. He found the left front sensor hard fault. He cleared the code, but as soon as the switch is turned on the fault come back. I didn't have time to work on it today, but tommorrow I am going to look at the wiring to the left front sensor. I think I can take the wire connector apart and ohm it out to see if it is definately the sensor or not. I am not sure what the ohm reading should be, but if I compare it to the right side it should be real close or my sensor is definately bad. The problem that I see; is it looks as though the whole wheel bearing assembly needs to be replaced to fix it. This really sucks and GM should be ashamed of the piece of crap they put out only 37,500 miles and another $300 part needs replaced. I wonder ..........does Toyota have these problems with their trucks?

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Reply to
Doug Adams

I forgot to mention, thanks for all the help on this. It is great to have someone to discuss the steps needed to fix some of these problems.

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Reply to
Doug Adams

I finally got time to go over it today. Some varmit must have got up on top of the upper control arm and chewed through the wire going to the plug in connector. I checked out both front sensors with an Ohm meter and both of them checked the same which made me look other places before going out and buying a hub. I soldered the wire back together and put shrink tubing on it (double layer) and put back in the plastic tubing. Looks like factory original, I hear they make a lot of the plastics on the wiring and tubing out of soybean oil. That makes the varmits think its food, maybe not a good idea!

Thanks for your efforts to help me, by the way my ABS light is now off

Doug

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Reply to
Doug Adams

Want a mate for it? I still have one here with mickey marks on it.

You might want to look over the rest of the wiring for mouse damage. They usually don't go for ONLY one wire or two. Wouldn't be fun to be cruising down the road and lose the lights because they shorted out.

Steve W. Near Cooperstown, New York

Reply to
Steve W.

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