Chevy/GMC - Suburban/Yukon

It's a trim/options package for the GMC Yukon (same size as the Tahoe) and the GMC Yukon XL (same size as the Suburban).

The trim package essentially adds the same options to the Yukon and Yukon XL so that it's equivalent to the Cadillac Escalade and Escalade ESV, respectively.

The big difference is the drive train, which becomes "AWD" instead of "2wd/4wd". I'm sure there are advantages either way.

-Stan

Reply to
Stan
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My uncle has a boat with teak on it that needs replacing, what's so great about that teak?

~KJ~

Reply to
KJ

I'd do a new post 'TransSurgeon / Gary Please help" if this doesn't work...

~KJ~

Reply to
KJ

The Denali also gets the 6.0 L engine, with a 5.3 L being the biggest available in non-Denali 1500 series Yukon/Yukon XL, Tahoe or Suburban.

Reply to
Mike Levy

If that teak is so rotten it needs replacing it's probably older than I am. The teak on the cabintop of my sailboat is 32 years old and is as solid as the day it was installed.

Reply to
JR

If the teak needs replacing, this stuff won't help. It's a finish, not a restorer. Make sure it truly is rotten before ripping it up. Teak develops a gray patina that makes it look really old, and to some's eye, rotten, but it is far from it. It's actually pretty rare for teak to rot, usually it's the marine grade plywood underlayment that rots, giving that spongy feel under foot. It all depends on the actual construction of the deck, whether it's a real teak plank deck or teak strips glued to marine underlay, like ours. We have no rot.

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Honey Teak is a three part product you have to carefully mix at time of use, and only as much as you need. Three layers of the Honey part, followed by three layers of the clear overcoat, applied wet on wet all in one day, produces a finish that is every bit as deep, golden, and shiny as typical marine varnish, but MUCH tougher. People are reporting 5-7 years in the direct, all year, Florida sun without needing anything more than chip or spot touch up, and at the very most, a scuffing with a 3M red scotchbrite pad and a maintenance coat, (something you can't do with varnish. Once it goes, you gotta strip it all).

If you've ever had to apply 5 to 10 coats of varnish over the course of a WEEK, only to have it blister and peel in a year, you'd appreciate this stuff. Google for "Honey Teak", both in groups and on the web, you'll be amazed. Powerboat Reports did a comparison a few years ago, and gave it the best rating of ANY marine wood finish.

I'm sold on the stuff, and I'm not connected in any way, just a thoroughly convinced customer. Watch my website below this spring for a pictorial of our application.

Donny

1974 Trojan Sea Raider 25'

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Reply to
Donny

Actually I BELIEVE that it is just strips on the fiber glass hull. It needs replacing because the chinking was separating - so they gouged it all out and planed down the teak a bit. Then they re-chinked and it's happening again. He said that a teak deck lasts about 12years?

~KJ~

Reply to
KJ

Well, the decks on our boat are thirty years old now, with this being the first refinish it's had. I don't know who told you they only last

12, but they were wrong. Go to one of americas fine old battleships on display at a large harbor, your choice of coasts, and look at the teak on the decks. Ask the curator if he/she knows how old the deck is, chances are good there is something original there.

Recaulking a teak deck is the devils own work, to be sure, and I'm glad we don't have to do it, yet. If it wasn't done absolutely perfectly, then it will separate sooner than it should. I bet that's what happened.

Honey Teak is just the coating that goes over it, but it's by far the best at long lasting beauty and functionality, IMHO.

Donny 1974 Trojan Sea Raider 25'

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Reply to
Donny

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