Fron differential

. Fron differential Group: alt.trucks.chevy Date: Sun, Sep 14, 2003, 10:59pm (CDT-2) From: cadman snipped-for-privacy@comcast.net (Mark=A0G.)

How and where do the check the from differential on an '85 K5 Blazer?

What am I looking for and all?

Am just getting back into maintaining my own vehicles rather than taking them to the shop, but some things I have forgotten. Thanks for the help.

. Mark, your'e looking for an english class.....though you may benefit from a well rounded literature class also. I know I haven't answered both your questions. But in all honesty......I'm not quite sure what the first one was.

Might I ask you a question?

Did you know that for around $21.00 you can get a quality oil change and ALL your FLUID LEVELS checked AND a free grease job on the suspension and u-joints.......or.....even a manual that will help you with all the stuff you can't remember on future repairs?

bear this in mind.............

1) 6 quarts of mediocre oil =3D $8.00 1 mediocre oil filter =3D $4.00 Labor cost if you do it =3D $0.00 (mediocre oil change) ....................................................... Total mediocre oil change =3D $12.00 (without a grease job) (add $10 for quality oil and filter =3D $22.00) (without a grease job)

2) you probably need an oil change

3) you wouldn't want to dump that waste oil down the toilet.(would you?)

4) your'e a bright feller

5) a bright feller uses deductive reasoning to decide on what to do

6) you really wouldn't settle for a mediocre oil change anyways

7) you need an excuse to get out the house and have some quality alone time

8) you could always come back in here for more advice if you need to.......on say like a transmission service or a tune-up......where the real fun is anyways, and the savings would justify the bragging writes you would have at work.

9) anybody can remove a fill plug that's halfway up the differential cover to make sure the fluid is dripping out, ensuring it's full.......and anybody can do an oil change.............but it takes a fool to feed a chicken when eggs is only 89 cent a dozen.

given with hope you'll find some wisdom in it

Scribb Abel

The smartest man I ever met............. Never said a word.

I'm not sure about your particular vehicle but, look on the cover and also behind the diff. on the same side as the driveshaft. It will either be a plug with a square head that requires a wrench or a square hole that an extension will fit into.

I've done my own oil changes and lube jobs for 40+ years and I've never seen a garage do it any better. Just take your time and re-check your work - several times. The best thing about doing your own is that you can use the best lubricants and not pay an outrageous price for it. Some of the WORST service I've ever gotten has been at the quick-lube places with their amateur staff. Take your waste oil to a place that will recycle it (Advance Auto and Pep Boys do).

As for you spelling, I think that your critic needs a few English lessons too.

****************************************** I would rather be exposed to the inconveniences attending too much liberty than to those attending too small a degree of it. ~ Thomas Jefferson ~

. Re: Front differential Group: alt.trucks.chevy Date: Mon, Sep 15, 2003, 2:09pm (CDT+1) From: snipped-for-privacy@webtv.net (Rich=A0B) I'm not sure about your particular vehicle but, look on the cover and also behind the diff. on the same side as the driveshaft. It will either be a plug with a square head that requires a wrench or a square hole that an extension will fit into. I've done my own oil changes and lube jobs for 40+ years and I've never seen a garage do it any better. Just take your time and re-check your work - several times. The best thing about doing your own is that you can use the best lubricants and not pay an outrageous price for it. Some of the WORST service I've ever gotten has been at the quick-lube places with their amateur staff. Take your waste oil to a place that will recycle it (Advance Auto and Pep Boys do).

As for you spelling, I think that your critic needs a few English lessons too.

****************************************** I would rather be exposed to the inconveniences attending too much liberty than to those attending too small a degree of it. =A0=A0~ Thomas Jefferson ~ ...

There was no intention of being a critic. Only an opinion...an answer...and options to the situation. The WORST service I've ever witnessed, on a consistant basis, has been performed by the owner of the vehical. Granted, under qualified personell is rampant in the "Quick Service" sector of the automotive field, but consistantly proven to be no more rampant than any other automotive repair facility.......and consistantly runs a far second to the "Do-it-Yerselfer" repair blotches I have seen in during my almost 3 decades of automotive repair. The WORST advice I've ever been subject to has also been consistantly provided by persons outside the field they were giving the advice on. The BEST advice and service I have recieved, has ALWAYS been from some ole fart that had skint nubbs fer fingers. Earned in the trade he wuz given the advice on.

any whooooo............. jest a bit of thought..on your bit of thought.

Scribb Abel ~~you can call me Nubbs if ya like~~~

"Experience is a hard school, but a fool can learn in no other." Ben Franklin ( a man who became quite well known for his expertise in electricity )

"Scrib Abel" wrote

Welcome back, MarshMonster.

Ian

Mark,

1) Remove the differential cover. Start at the bottom bolts and work your way up so the bottom of the cover pops loose first and pukes the oil into a drain pan.

2) Remove cover once it's done draining.

3) Look on the inside of the diff cover for metal flakes/shards/powder. Also look on the bottom of the diff. housing for the same things.

4) Rotate wheels to get the gears moving and check for broken teeth on the ring and pinion gears.

5) Use a clean, DRY cloth to get the remaining guck out of the bottom of the diff. housing.

6) Use a new gasket, some hi-tack and re-attach the diff. cover. Start at the bottom and work your way up, as you want the bottom nice and tight. I usually go 15 ft/lbs all around.

7) Remove the differential fill plug, which will be located on the driver's side of the housing. It will have a 3/8" SQUARE drive plug. Use a ratchet extension and a breaker bar to pop it loose. An impact wrench with 3/8" extension will also work, but you need to really lean into it before pulling the trigger to avoid stripping out the plug.

8) Fill it up with 80W90 GL5 gear lube till it overflows out of the hole, let the extra run off, as soon as it stops dripping replace the plug.

Doc (who don't give a rats ass about your spelling!)

I agree with Rich. Maintaining your own vehicles is much more cost efficient, *and* you know that it's getting done right - because you have the ability to ask questions of people that know what they're doing beforehand, and you tackle the job with all the information.

I can't tell you how many vehicles I've seen screwed up at the "quickie lube" or just about any other shop in general because the techs there are forced to do rush jobs (the more vehicles through the doors, the more the shop can make). When at home, you've got as long as you want to take, and you can take the time to grease the joints you can get to, and move the stuff in the way to get to the rest.

As for the plug on your GM Corp. 10-bolt Blazer front axle, it's in the side of the diff, not the cover (it doesn't make sense to put a plug where a rock can smack it).

Jeremy