Getting out crosses

Hi folks,

So no sooner than I started towing my new boat with my old truck and a u-joint failed. I have a two-piece drive shaft, three croses altogether. Naturally it is the forwardmost one, righ next to the transfer case (yup, 4x4). Any suggestions on how to change it out without pulling the shaft and putting it on a press? I did my old Ford with a C-clamp but this Chevy cros won't budge. I shot some more grease in it to get through a few more miles. BTW, the other two crosses are OEM with 209K miles on them. The failed won was replaced by my old Chevy dealership 70K ago. Go figger. Al (under a truck on a rainy day in North Carolina) Hartkopf

Reply to
Al Hartkopf
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If they are the orginal u-joints, they are probably help together with injected plastic. A REAL bare to get loose. It's eqasy enough to remove both axils (just make sure to draw a line across each section so that they can be put back together with the same alignment. You can then take them to a drive shaft shop and have all the u-joints replaced for under $50 (this includes parts). Or you can spend $30 on u-joints and several hours of hard work with a torch and a large press to get the u-joints off.

My recommendation is to replace them all at this point.

Reply to
Todd Copeland

Hey "hardhead" ;-)

Todd's right they it's more than likely (like 99.9999999%) injected plastic in the drive shaft holding the cups in. It's best to take it out of the truck to get it loose. Also make sure you clean out the grooves for the replacement u-joints snap rings of any plastic.

Brian (dumbkopf)

Reply to
NoSpam

Reply to
Al Hartkopf

Haa Haa

Reply to
NoSpam

Reply to
Al Hartkopf

I am not sure... but regardless, IMHO it's simply not worth the time and effort to do it yourself (the whole job). You will most likely spend $25 on u-joints and serveral hours attempting to remove them and installing the new ones. I'd spend the $40-$50 and have a professional do the job for you. _Then_ if you really want a press, go out and buy one. Keep in mind, the press alone might not be enough to remove the old joints. Most of the time a torch is needed to heat up the plastic in order to pry the u-joint loose.

Reply to
Todd Copeland

why is it taking you several hours to change a U joint? last one I changed, I did in about 15 minutes. just heat up the joint until the plastic squirts out and then use 2 sockets and a bench vise to pop out the old joint and press in the new one. just don't forget to put the retaining clips in (unlike my moron of a brother... but that's another story)

-Bret

Reply to
Bret Chase

I'm betting even the best cannot even drop the entire 3 peice driveshaft in

15 minutes, let alone all that plus removing and installing 3 new u-joints and reinstalling the shaft. In my case I did not have a torch which would melt the plastic in the u-joints. At best, it's a hour job. Also, how much did you pay for the one u-joint? Let's say $7 (as I did). $7 x 3 u-joints is $21. I had a driveshaft shop install 3 new u-joints for $44. So the additional cost was about $20. Well worth every penny spent.
Reply to
Todd Copeland

"Todd Copeland" wrote

I suspect that Brent was referring to the replacement time for one u-joint with the shaft already out.

What chevy truck 1-ton and under has a "3-piece driveshaft"? You probably meant 2-piece.....if so, these only take 5 minutes to get out, and another 10-15 minutes to replace one u-joint. Most of the time involved is walking to the parts department a couple of times, as they never can seem to get you the right u-joint on the first attempt.

With a torch, the plastic injected u-joints practically fall apart. Oh....the new clips don't go inside the section of the yoke that has the plastic, so cleaning all the plastic out of the grooves, while a nice touch, is not necessary.

Ian

Reply to
shiden_Kai

with a air ratchet, I can have it out in about 10 mins.

let alone all that plus removing and installing 3 new u-joints

I was talking 15 mins to actually change the joint, not the whole job.

Also, how much

genuine Spicer, 12-13 bucks.

Let's say $7 (as I did). $7 x 3 u-joints is

where ever you went was cheap as shit. I don't know what the book time would be, but I'm guessing around an hour total. you'd pay about

15 for each joint and an hour's shop time (50-75/hr, non dealer) here in Maine.

-Bret

Reply to
Bret Chase

"shiden_Kai" wrote

Oops...Bret.....sorry.

Ian

Reply to
shiden_Kai

Oopps your right, the groove for the plastic injection is around the center of the cap and I think that the cap has a groove as well. Been awhile since I changed one.

Brian

Reply to
NoSpam

6 ton'll lift the entire truck AND garage off the ground.

A one ton press is more than sufficient and since you say that one was already replaced by the dealership it should come out no problem-O

-- Gordie

St. Ignatius of Antioch, a disciple of the Apostle John, called the Eucharist the "medicine of immortality" (A.D. 110, Letter to the Ephesians 20:2).

Concerning "those who hold heretical opinions," he wrote, "note how contrary they are to the mind of God. They abstain from the Eucharist and prayer, because they refuse to acknowledge that the Eucharist is the Flesh of our Savior Jesus Christ, which suffered for our sins and which the Father by His goodness raised up" (A.D. 110, Letter to the Smyrneans 6:2-7:1).

Reply to
The Nolalu Barn Owl

So I may be getting ahead of myself. I put her up on jacks running today and let her turn the drive train. Dogged if I can tell exactly where the whining/screeching is coming from. Now it sounds a little more towards the rear than front, although I thought there was play in the front cross. Could be the oil seal or the bearing in the front og the hogshead or the rear cross. Turning the rear end with her in Park does not make any noise so my planetary gears and pinions, and my locking diff, are probably OK. Later today (it is "Dance Recital Weekend from Hell" around here. Four shows in Four days and I have two very tired little girls.) I will disconnect the propeller shaft from the hogshead and see it hand tunring the rear end produces noise. If so, its off to the shop (probably). If not, maybe have a go at the rear cross, or, as one poster put it, replace 'em all! I have just recently started immersing the rear end in water to launch my boat. Maybe that has hastened failure.

Al

Al Hartk> Hi folks,

Reply to
Al Hartkopf

Did you look at the bearing supporting the center u-joint? Could be the problem as they don't last all that long.

Brian

Reply to
NoSpam

Reply to
Al Hartkopf

are you talking about the carrier barring?

Reply to
mat

That would probably help, but if you don't have one use a section of hose about two feet long. That works pretty well too.

Brian

Reply to
NoSpam

Don't do something that'll get you killed or injured when you check things out. I have never been able to find a bad u-joint without taking the shaft off on one end (unless it broke already). For some reason they seem tight when you just slide under the truck and start to shake things. One thing I did was take a shaft off and take it to the shop for new joints and then install the shaft myself.

-- Regards Gordie

Reply to
The Nolalu Barn Owl

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