Getting out crosses

If you don't have a torch, you can use a cutting wheel on a circular saw (or a proper cutter tool). The sell the 7" cutting wheels at Home Depot near the exit to the tool area. If you don't cut them you'll need to press it out twice or somehow press one side at a time grabbing by the exposed bearings rather than the middle. Elliott

Or just spend the 39.95 on a MAPP torch at Lowes or HD. You will find it useful on other things anyway.

yep, i always use my 20 ton press for lifting my garage... i like to sweep dust from the floor under there.. usually leave the truck in the garage too... still has a ton or two to spare..

Changed lots of these and never used a torch, or a press. I use a giant vice and a good assortment of sockets. I have a wire hanging from my garage rafters with a loop at the end. I tie the drive shaft to the wire loop with rope to suspend it and use the vice to push the joints apart. A hammer and a short piece of rod helps. In my shop I had a regular U-Joint press and I found a big vice is faster. Someone mentioned using a cut off wheel in a circular saw. I'd like to know what you would do with it?

While we're on the U-Joint story. I never use greaseable joints in applications where a lot of torque or shock loading has to be handled. I will use them in regular service.

Al

It's very simple. Get thee:

Heat thy U-joint caps with thou torch until they spew white fibrous plastic like ye child's pimples. Use thy ball peen hammer to smash thy u-joint all the way one way. Remove thou exposed bearing cap and smash thy u-joint the other way. Thy instillation shall be the opposite of the removal.

~KJ/TLGM KJ the Lonely Grease Monkey would like to note to the O.P. that you WILL be told by many this is the improper & crude method of doing things. I tried to perform a U-joint job using vises, clamps, magic, prayer, and found that a ballpeen hammer and good aim had them out in minutes with minute frustration.

So you mean that he should cool the U-joint caps until white fibrous plastic is sucked into the assembly? ;-)

Brian

Ye be a comical lad indeed .... ARRRR

Bought press. (99.99 at Northern Hydraulics) Replaced cross. (19.99 at AllPro Auto Parts) Bad vibration in driveline. (Priceless) Work continues. Flipping of cross next on the agenda. Don't tell me I should have marked the line where the shaft comes out of the transfer case. I remembered that step right after the shaft hit the ground.

Al

Celica Dude wrote:

Al, you may have a bent driveshaft if new U-joints have not cured the problem.

Jacked up truck and blocked. (3 minutes) Remounted propeller shaft after 180 degree twist (5 minutes) Trip on the I-40 at 65 mph with no vibration (Priceless)

Another automotive success story. Now if I can just get the rusted brake bleeder valves > Bought press. (99.99 at Northern Hydraulics)

Don't any of you guys own an air chisel?

I pop them out with an air chisel all the time.

I drive the carrier bear> If you don't have a torch, you can use a cutting wheel on

You can't tell him how to do everything. If I did I'd have to charge $150 instead of $14.99 for the book.

~KJ/TLGM

Good to hear that you fixed it.

~KJ/TLGM

one of those 'butterfly' palm-sized impact wrenches does wonders......if you can get a straight shot at the valve

If you read it again I'll bet you can figure it out.

I love those things... I have two of them ... both made by Chicago Pneumatic and both over 30 years old... They are really invaluable. A caterpillar

They make oil pans a breeze as well..