Yes, every 2,000. I get a small pulse when brake is applied. 2,134 miles ago I bought brand new rotors for my '96 Silverado 2x4. at Napa Auto Parts. I also bought the most expensive brake pads they had. I don't drive through any water puddles. What's the deal? Am I going to have to cut my rotors everytime I get an oil change? The brake drums in the back work fine, I checked them in the sand my slamming the brake. This isn't the first time this has happened to me either. I've had my rotors cut 3 times before buying the new ones. And I've only had this truck for two years. What am I doing wrong? I know there is a break-in period and I do what they tell me, drive around slow (5MPH) stop and go for 5 minutes in the neighborhood. Opinions?
"Shades" wrote in message news: snipped-for-privacy@rapidnet.com...
I'll second that notion along with improperly adjusted rear brakes, and improperly torqued lug nuts. Excessive heat is the main cause of the warpage, the rotors getting too hot, not hitting water puddles. If the brakes are dragging in the front they get hot, if the rear brakes are not adjusted properly the fronts have to work much harder and the rotors warp Slamming the brakes on in sand is not going to tell you anything about the rear brakes other than they are doing something, not that they are doing enough. Things to look at on the calipers, that the slide area where the caliper rides on the spindle is clean, a very light coat of high temp moly lube where the two mate. That the caliper mounting pins can move freely in the caliper housing. If not replace the pins and sleeves, and bushings. Make sure the bores the pins ride in are clean of rust and debris and lube with a quality silicon grease. The inboard pad is a floating pad, make sure it moves freely. The square seal in the caliper has hardened, rebuild or replace calipers. The front brake hoses can cause drag, apply brakes a couple times and then crack bleeders, if the brake fluid comes out with any force there is a blockage some where. do the same thing and then crack the connection between the steel line and the brake hose, this will tell if it is the line or upstream some where. If the truck has rear wheel anti lock brakes there could be a problem with the control valve, again the rears wont do their share and the fronts over heat. If you pull; a trailer with a fair load and the trailer doesn't have brakes. Heavy foot can cause problems as well as someone who likes to rest the left foot on the brake pedal. Do the front brakes seem to lock up easy on wet roads under moderate to heavy braking?
No, I don't notice that. They seem normal when the roads are wet.
The brakes overall seem fine, except for the light shaking when slowing down from 40-0 - don't feel it during higher speeds (they're not warped that bad yet.) I've had it jacked up and the front wheels turn very freely. Also, I noticed one of the rotors has a small "score" on it. What the heck can cause this? The pads are still brand new. I don't drive in the mud where sand can get in there. Obviously I must have gotten a bad pair of pads?
I experienced this situation on both my '88 Chevy C1500 and my '95 Chevy C1500. I had to get my rotors re-cut every 3,000 miles until I figured out what was causing the problem. Even replacing the front rotors and rebuilding the calipers didn't initially fix the problem on my '88.
The cause is either the lugs were tightened in an improper pattern when the tire was mounted, or the tech who did it used an impact wrench and torqued the lug nuts too far. The solution is as easy as 1) Always insist that when your wheels are mounted back on the truck, hand tighten the lug nuts in a star-pattern, and 2) torque the lug nuts to 90 ft-lbs by hand only using a torque wrench (no impact wrenches), not the 100 ft-lbs listed in the book. An impact wrench is OK to use when removing the wheels, but never use it when re-mounting.
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