Gary Glaenzer wrote
switch is on the bracket above the brake pedal
>
> they go bad with regularity, and cost about 40 bucks
>
> they are also adjustable, and get out of adjustment
>
> they didn't 'try that first' because they are stupid, are rip-off artists, > or both
Yes, I agree. When I bought my 89 Suburban used, the brake lights didn't work at all. I was able to adjust the switch at the pedal and they've worked fine for 5 1/2 years. Might just be simple as that. Jack
I see them out of adjustment all the time, causing no lock-up and toasted
4L80E's in 2500 and 3500's
Wouldnt that cause lock-up too often, at least at first? Or is that what you mean, toasted converters cause they dont unlock when they should? Wont it unlock when you let off the gas anyway? Can the computer figure out that the brake switch is inop and then not lock-up the converter anymore then set the light? Just curious and trying to learn something.......
the converter in the 80E (and 60E) will overheat badly if lock-up is not achieved
the bad brake light switch keeps it from locking up
end result is the unit puking fluid out the filler tube or vent
====================== Ok cool, thanks.
Figures... I guess that "2 screws in the cover" thing was just too old fashion for them. I suppose I should be thankful that they have not made it so I need to remove the engine first.
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